Pichler Background
Pichler used to make fairings for both the Sabre and the Magna. The Sabre Fairing was a dedicated fairing, produced for both the V45 and V65.  It is suspected that there is little difference between the two except for the mounting hardware.  The fairing for the Magna was a universal fairing, which is illustrated in their catalog on numerous motorcycles.  Since these fairings are not manufactured anymore, in order to obtain one a person would have to buy it used.  I was lucky enough to find a reasonably priced Uni-4 fairing for the Magna, And have since mounted it.To the right  is an index of photos from an old Pichler Catalog.  Click to view the photos on the Sabre or the other bikes..

General Fairing Musings
After years of searching, I have finally found a frame-mount (f-m) fairing for the Magna. If you've ever listened to my ramblings before, then you know I was getting desperate. The only f-m fairings that seemed like they wouldn't be totally hideous on the Magna were the Yamaha X-1 (for the Virago/ Maxim circa 1982) and the Pichler Universal Uni-4 (German, Whereabouts unknown).
    When I asked local Yahama dealers about the X-1, they claimed no knowledge of such a thing. Even when I showed them pictures from old magazines, their memory banks were frozen. Local junkyards were no help, because, even if I did get one, I was not guaranteed that I could make it fit. I wasn't about to pay for the fairing to find out.
    I personally didn't like the looks of the old Vetter f-m fairings, they were too big and awkward, and didn't go with the style of the bike. Forget Spec II & the old "Pacificos." Just too ugly or not applicable.
    That left the Pichler fairing, which I happened to spot in an old catalog in a MC shop back in 1992. They were the ultimate in fairings. Not only did they look good, but they were extremely aerodynamic. They make (or made) fairings for all the common cafe style bikes, BMW's, etc., and they had a universal one, which they modeled on such bikes as the V-Max. They even had one that looks sort of custom made for the Sabre! The looks and aerodynamics are a LOT better than the Hondaline.
    Thus my search (back then) for the Pichler fairing was on. I found out that they pulled out of the US, back in 1991. I saw one "universal" model in a dealer in Buffalo NY, while I was on a road trip, but it was a floor model, and they still wanted $1000 for it! I've since seen Pichler fairings (not the "universal" one) on BMW's, and Concourses, and similar bikes. It was a good alternative to the stock bulky (and sometimes ugly) ones. In 1995 I got really desperate, and called some reps in Germany, to see if they could do anything to contact Pichler. I got vague answers. I contacted (through e-mail) a guy in Germany (I think it was from this group) and he assured me that Pichler was still in business, but they didn't make the universal fairing anymore. He was going to get me some info, on maybe a used one, but that didn't look promising. After all, Germany is a long way to go for a fairing.
    I know, Israel was a long way to go for the Givi luggage, but it was worth it.
    Anyway, I was looking in the want ads Tuesday night, and there it was! Pichler Uni-4 Fairing, excellent condition, $400! I went to see it Wednesday night and bought it on the spot for $350! It was absolutely flawless. The guy who sold it to me was very nice, and quite knowledgeable. We were discussing the fact that Rifle wants almost $300 for their midline cheapo- handlebar mount fairing (as viewed on my bike in the MagSab gallery) and that they want about $400 and up for the deluxe handlebar mount!
    So now I am the very happy owner of a Pichler Uni-4 fairing, and the quest is over. I will take photos & scan them for the MagSab gallery when mounted, and also of the GIVI luggage.

In conclusion, I learned a few things that MagSab people would be extremely interested in.
1. There does exist a great f-m fairing for the Magna. Its not bulky at all, and it can fit a radio & speakers. Keep your eyes open in the want-ads!
2. There is a fantastic alternative to the Sabre Hondaline fairing.
3. There is a "custom" plastic windshield house in Florida (Gustaffson Plastics) which has all the molds to most of the motorcycle windshields, and they are inexpensive. So if you want that fluorescent green pinstriped Sabre windshield, or just a stock one, at a reasonable price, this is the place.

Pichler Addresses & Contact
I  purchased a used Pichler Uni-4 Fairing for the Magna after a 5-year search. There is no dealer in the U.S. anymore, they pulled out in 1991. I have contacted people in Germany with less than satisfactory results. I picked up my fairing used. I know that Pichler is still in business, but they do not make fairings for our applications. I have scanned some pages of their catalog as applicable to Sabre's/Magna's, as well as the Uni-4 mounted on the Magna.

Pichler: (forgive me for typos, I don't understand German) They now have a website, and say they make a fairing for the Sabre!  It is expensive, approximately 1160DM,   converted    to U.S. currency  it would cost 694.90 + 140.00 shipping.

Pichler Kunststofftechnik GmbH
Industriegebiet
Lauterbachstr. 19
D-8330 Eggenfelden
Telefon: 0 87 21 / 36 22
Telefax: 0 87 21 / 72 14
Telex: 5 8 809 pked
haraldpichler@l-online.de

Fairing Installation, Part II, 12-30-96
I tried a test fit on the 1984, and it looks fine.

The way the faring mounts is with a sort of an octopus fitting, which is u-bolted to the steering "crown." This is the only attachment to the frame, but it seems very solid. The Magna's frame is great for this, it can fit about 3 U-bolts for maximum stability. I have to get new U-bolts, and I will probably use muffler clamps.

The headlight needs to be removed, of course, and unfortunately, the fusebox assembly, the one with all the wires in it! This is a difficulty. As you all know, the V65 Magna runs what seems like every wire on the bike through that plastic fork mounted box. Obviously, this box has to be removed. On the "non-operational" bike, this is easy, just let the wires hang. However, on the "real" bike, I think this presents a little bit of difficulty. Most of the connections, although partially covered by the fairing, are, IMO, still too exposed to the environment.

After carefully labeling and diagramming all the connections, I looked at the mess of wires just hanging in midair. This is not good, and I didn't want to just "strap" them to the frame.

I will covered the back of the connectors with silicone, to provide a waterproof seal from that direction. However, I would like suggestions on how to further "weatherproof" the connections. I was thinking of sort of a pelican box, but I don't want to take it that far if I don't have to. Those black-plastic slitted wire covers would be just too big. Heat shrink tubing would not be accessible enough.

Ordinarily, I would just run the wires through the fairing. However, most of the wires go to the swinging fork assembly, so they must have enough "play" in them to allow the fork its full swing. This would be next to impossible if the wires came anywhere near the fairing.

Wires such as the turn signals, and the fusebox are OK, they do not connect to anything that "swings" anymore, since the signals are in the fairing. However every other set of %^$#@!! wires either runs up to the ignition switch, dashboard, left or right handlebar control, etc. On regular bikes with a frame fairing built in, the dash is mounted stationary in the fairing, so that the assembly (and thus the wiring) does not have to move with the handlebars.

Fairing Installation, Part II, 12-30-96

I used two 1-7/8" heavy duty muffler clamps to connect the mounting bracket to the frame. I had to bend them in a little on a vise to get the threaded holes to line up. I used the vibration-proof bolts on the ends. It seems that the brackets/bolts do not want to be really tight. Just a little torque seems to be enough to set the bracket onto the frame. Ahhh, German engineering!

I was intent on not letting the electrical wires and connectors hang in mid-air. Thus I had the idea of keeping the original plastic box, and somehow repositioning it so that it wouldn't interfere with the fairing. This worked out fairly well. What I did was to move the box up about 5", and tilt it in at the bottom. I'm holding it in place with the plastic tie straps, until I can figure out a better way. I ran the plastic tie straps through the bolt holes in the back of the box, through two more holes I drilled in the box, and finally to the bolt holes in the fork assembly where the original light stems were bolted in.

Some wires had to be repositioned. Both wiring harnesses from the handlebars had to be run on top of the upper fork bracket instead of the lower, to give the added length needed. The wire from the ignition had to be "bent" a little so as not to interfere with the fairing mounting bracket. Other than that, the box is pretty much stock, except that I had to cut the fusebox cover to keep it from hitting the mounting bracket. This was done easily with a Dremel.

The signal lights are just single filament, and the bulb mount is molded plastic. The running lights will be disconnected until I figure this one out, also. The headlamp wiring will have to be modified (extended) since it moves with the handlebars, and does not provide enough clearance when fully extended. The horns obviously have to be repositioned. This will be done in part 3.

Fairing Installation pt. 3: Wiring! 1-12-97

I decided not to mount the stock box, since it seems so clunky. Instead, I will use the stock connectors, seal them with RTV, and bypass a few by soldering them out of the system. The 2 I "soldered out" were the 6-pin small connector, that controls the dash/signals, and the 6-pin red, which comes directly from the ignition switch. Careful, there are some double wire connections here, and some duplicate connections according to the schematic. These connections are now soldered, heat shrinked, and will be anchored in such a way as to not put undue strain on them with handlebar travel. The remaining four connectors I will "Bunch together," initially held with crazy glue to get a test fit, and then secured as well as possible. They will be RTV'd to weatherproof them.

Part 4: More Wiring! 1-19-97, 2-9-97

I decided to solder bypass two more of the bulky connectors. The one which goes to the speedo assembly, and another one. Now there are only four, which can be easily routed. I sealed the backs of the other connectors with RTV silicone seal. I will get some of the wire covering, as well as some "tapeable" heat shrink tubing to finish the job.

Final Assembly:

I installed the wiring covers, which worked out well. I also purchased extra hardware to 'fit' the lower front mount to the fairing. Upon tightening everything, the top seems tight, but the side pieces 'shake' a little when forced. This may or may not effect the fairing when riding. Most of the wiring I have 'wire wrapped' to the mounting bracket in one way or another. I secured the dashboard wiring onto the 'ignition key housing' as to not put stress on the wires when the handlebar is turned. I also clipped the two running light wires, for the left & right directionals.

I found some 'cold shrink tape' which worked out fantastic. Just wrap the loose wires with this, and you get quite the professional job.