This section will be devoted to my version of the Schoeb-Landry Oil Modification. I modified their basic approach, which I will describe below. I want to thank both Schoeb & Landry for the invaluable information they supplied. Whichever version you attempt, the photos herein will hopefully put to rest any questions you may have.
The page has been recently updated, with better photos from Malcolm, the Fringe Kid.  I performed the Oil Mod on 'The Perfect Magna' (the lower half, anyway) in January 1998.  The photos are a mixture of the bimbized Magna (oil Mod in 1996) and the Perfect Magna.

Background Reading
This page is written with the assumption of the reader being familiar with the oil mod as described by both the above authors. This information can be found on Robyn Landers V-4 page. Therefore this page will not detail the factors that make the oil mod necessary, nor will it go into any details about the cams, etc. I do want to point out that there is an alternative method, available in kit form. Information on this method, called the Tierny-Hollen method, is also available on the V4 Page. I will briefly outline some of the issues and ideas, as presented in the V65 Society material.
 

Oil System Kits / Modifications (From V65 Society)
Though some feel that camshaft failure is solely due to the poor quality of the cams, others feel that the oiling system is also to blame. The stock oiling system provides filtered oil to the lower end (crank, rods, etc.), but provides only unfiltered oil to the transmission and cylinder heads. The heads are last in line to receive oil, and receive relatively low volume and pressure.
   In order to try to eliminate potential camshaft failure, some have devised external oil kits/mods which bring filtered oil of greater volume/pressure than stock to the heads. A Honda rep has mentioned that increasing oil pressure to the top can only help the situation, even though no problems have been reported using the newer improved Honda cams. The people at Web Cams "highly recommend" using an external oil kit.
  There are two main types of oil kits/mods available for the V4: the  Schoeb-Landry  "Drill the main gallery" type, and "Tierney-Hollen" type.
  The "Tierney-Hollen" type kit consists of an adaptor plate which is mounted between the oil filter and engine case. Installation is relatively easy, and does not require engine removal or case drilling. Tierney-Hollen was apparently the first to produce such kits, but is no longer in business. Several enthusiasts are now reproducing the Tierney style kit. One drawback to this kit is that the oil filter adaptor plate places the stock oil filter very close to the exhaust header. Gaylon G. says he can still use the stock filter on his Tierney modified V65 Magna, but it's a tight fit. Robyn Landers says the stock filter would not fit his Tierney modified V45 Sabre without dimpling. Robyn finally switched to a smaller diameter filter. Art R. claims a measured 30 psi increase of oil pressure at the heads at 3,000 rpm with the Tierney type kit he offers. Enthusiast David Berkey has also created a nice Tierney type kit, which is now available through Dale Walker's Holeshot Performance.See Robyns page for more details.
  In response to many who have concerns about camshaft failure, it has been recommended to seek the Honda service bulletin VF750F#11, issued July 1983. Apparently, Honda offers an improved "oil control bolt" to improve oil flow to the heads. I assume they are referring to the banjo bolts that connect the oil feed lines to each head. Ray T. reports that the "old" bolt is of the same diameter all along its length, and has holes in it. However, the new bolt is triangular in shape.
 

Introduction
With the above paragraph in mind, it is no wonder I decided to do my own version of the  Schoeb-Landry modification.  What follows is a do-it-yourself oil modifiocation, with professional results.

Parts Acquisition And Description
Noting the parts list on the previous two versions of the modifications, I first saw that there were a lot of NPT adapters. This was especially true on Schoeb's modification, which used the NPT's at the junction. After some research, and my own experience with automobiles, I modified a few things, which I hope improved the overall design. Some of the information below may be obvious to most readers, but was not obvious to me at first.

NPT Taps
The NPT (National Pipe Thread) is a screw in type connector which provides a high pressure seal.  The NPT male/female connection works as a seal because of a tapered thread design. The thread is tapered at an angle of 1° 47'. This angle causes the thread to sort of self seal by threading it in only part of the way, since the threads are constantly widening.  This is the connector that is used when connecting to the main oil gallery.   When tapping the hole into the main oil gallery, as stated by Schoeb, be careful not to tap too deep. I don't think the point was emphasized enough. The tap is tapered, so tapping too deep will cause the hole to be too wide. If the hole is too wide, then the male connector will not seal at all. I first tried the tap on a piece of scrap aluminum - and I'm glad I did. From my experience with regular taps & dies, I just tapped to almost the end of the tap itself, not realizing that the tap was tapered. The hole came out too big, and the NPT male did not fit snugly in the hole as it should have. I found that I only needed 2 - 3 turns or so after breakthrough to complete the thread and provide a proper seal. The tap used in all the modifications to date is the 1/8" NPT. A question was raised in the group about using ¼" or 3/8" NPT taps since they are bigger, and therefore would provide more flow. This picture (In conjunction with the closeup of the drilled hole in the engine block) illustrates why this is not acceptable.
The NPT connector is useful for connecting to the engine block, as described in most previous modifications. However, for all the other connections there are better choices as outlined below.

A/N connections
The A/N (Army-Navy) style fittings have been used for years in automotive and aircraft applications. These connections provide a high pressure seal (Up to 3000 psi) by way of their specially machined mating surfaces. They come in a variety of sizes, usually designated by dash numbers. There are AN-3, AN-4, AN-6, etc. For this application, Aeroquip makes a series of AN-4 connections to the -4 braided steel reinforced teflon line, the same teflon line used by both Landry & Schoeb. No teflon tape is needed with these connectors. There is also an adapter from 10mm Banjo bolt to AN-4, along with various Tee's, elbows and the like. To get information on these connectors, and the hoses, there are plenty of automotive mail order houses which will send free catalogs. Two of them that I deal with are Summit in Ohio (800-230-3030), and Jeggs (800-345-4545).
I ordered a whole bunch of parts, because I am always tinkering anyway, but the ones I used are listed as follows. From the block, I used the Aeroquip NPT male to AN-4 Male adapter. This is the connection to the block at the main oil gallery. I ran a hose under and around to the top of the head, this hose I measured and test fit first, one end I used a 90° AN-4 to hose adapter, and at the other end I used a straight AN-4 to hose adapter. At the output of this I installed an AN-4 male "Tee". This allowed me to branch to both the cylinder heads. To the closest head port, the front, there was a short piece of hose with AN-4 straight connections on both sides. The opposite end of this hose with the AN-4 Straight was connected directly to an AN-4 to 10mm banjo bolt adapter. For the rear head, the same hoses and adapters were used, with the exception of a longer hose (of course) and instead of a straight AN-4 to hose adapter, I found that a 45° one worked better. The Figure below shows the actual hoses, and click here for a view of the schematic. 
The AN-4 fittings not only look better, they are easily connected and disconnected without excessive torquing and teflon tape. They provide a great reusable seal. Just look under the hood of any serious race car.

Reference Photos
To get an idea of what I am talking about, if you are new to this, or just as reference, here are some photos which outline the various engine parts and drilled holes.

Parts list

Notes:
¹ The AN-4 to 10mm Banjo bolt comes in Packages of 2 Each.
² The 4' Length of braided hose is a conservative estimate. I actually bought 10', I will use the rest in other applications.

The connectors above are specially made to connect to the teflon hose. The ordinary AN-4 to -4 Hose is not suggested. Aeroquip makes a line of "TFE Fittings" which are recommended. The AN­4 "Tee" can be of any manufacturer, it is suggested that anti-seize compound be used on the connecting threads. The parts listed above are more expensive than the normal brass fittings, but well worth it.

Doing the job

Weekend 1; Hose Assembly; 1.5 Hours
I assembled all the hoses using test fits before I even started the job. Surprisingly, the hoses went together easily, I thought that it was too easy, that they were sure to leak -- but they didn't.  Look at the Hose diagram for details.   I also learned that the braided steel line will mar the finish on the engine.  Put some heat shrink tubing in the places where it will come in contact with any surface!

Weekend 2; Bottom Hose Connection; 3 hrs.
After assembling the hoses the previous week, I started the job. At this time, I did not disconnect the original head oil lines, I decided to do the modification in steps. The first step was to hook up the bottom feed and hose, drive around for a week and check for leaks. After it was verified by driving that there were no leaks, I would connect the new oil feed to the head. I want to stress that at all times during the modification, some head oiling was used, either the stock or the modified. I did not start the engine without oil to the heads!

Disconnecting the muffler system was easy, as well as the right engine cover. I've done both before on many occasions. Drilling the hole was a little difficult because of the cramped space (See above left) , even with the bike jacked up. What I did was to stuff a lint free rag into the oil gallery before drilling to catch the metal filings which could find their way up into the engine. A piece of dense foam rubber also works.  When I was finished drilling and tapping, I pulled out the rag, and cleaned everything extremely well. The NPT connection fit fine, I used teflon tape, and one of my machine shop friends told me that there is even a teflon tape in liquid form, which I did not use. I connected the hose from the bottom to the top only, and used an AN-4 plug to seal off the hole in the end that came up near the heads. Driving this around for a week, I notice no leaks, not even a dribble! Hooking up a pressure gauge to this connection, I read about 80-90 psi, when cold, at idle. This is the pressure that should come out of the main gallery.  On the right is a view of the blocked off connection that i rode around with while testing for leaks.

Weekend 3; Top Hose Connection; 3 hrs
The next week, with the success of the lower line, I decided to hook up the uppers. I hate removing the carburetors, so I tried it with just removing the radiator. This worked fine, however the rear head connection gave me a little trouble. I removed the old oil feed lines without cutting, but it was difficult, and they did get quite bent up. On both heads, I had to bend the banjo bolts slightly, as did Landry & Schoeb to make them fit easier. With the AN-4 fittings, connecting was a snap, and I plan to hook up a pressure gauge in the future.   The figure to the right sows the front head connection.  Don't you just love the 'engine removed for clarity' line?
The blocking of the original oil feed bolt went fine, the bolt was a 10mm X 1.25. At this time I started the engine and checked for leaks. There were none. I was amazed. Out of curiosity I checked the pressure at the original feed line to get a number for comparison. The pressure was about 35 - 40psi at cold idle, a full 50psi below the modified version. I've read previously that its the volume of the oil to the heads that matters, not the pressure. This may be true, but pressure and volume are intimately related, and increasing the pressure by 50 psi increases the volume of oil to the heads significantly.

Results
I bought the bimbized bike in September 1995 with 13,000 miles on it.  It now has only 41,000, and sits immobile in my garage. The modification was successful, and there were no leaks or snags. I've literally been through every inch of the V65 which probably helped a lot. The engine did not run much cooler, but it took a lot longer to reach operating temperature. The gas mileage increased, by about 3.3 mpg. This is astounding by itself. The gas mileage number came from an average of 6 tankfulls before the mod, and 6 tankfulls after. The engine did not run noticeably quieter, it was quiet to begin with. I adjusted the valves at 20,000, and adjusted them again at the SMCNE 3.0. I will relate the difference in the clearance and the cams. The only engine modifications from stock are a Dynojet jet kit, and a K&N filter, and of course, always synthetic oil. I took it down to the track just before the oil modifications, for fun, and I did 11.9 @ 110mph in the quarter mile. This was with "normal" non destructive riding, I shifted at 8500 - 9000 rpm, using the clutch smoothly, as I would on the street. I think I could have got another second if I power shifted and revved higher, but I didn't want to. There is no reason to beat on the bike to get another second in the quarter mile. I will report in the future if the quarter mile time improved any with the modification. Unfortunately, I never got the chance to see what the bike did after the mod.  We did go to the track, but the bikes performance was poor, turning only a 12.2 best time.  This was due to clogged carbs, as related on the carb page.

I don't see how anyone could fail to see the value of the oil modification. An engine that is running right, and lubricated correctly should not be able to gain over 3 mpg just by re-routing the oil lines.

Now that the job is all done, take a look at the completed oil mod.  This is on the now bimbized bike.  Notice the paint scraped away where the hose touches the engine.  This has been corrected for the 'Perfect Magna.'
 

Addendum: An Oil Pressure Gauge
On my 1984 Magna, I connected a 1.5" diameter mechanical oil pressure gauge, which worked fine. The way I connected it was to use a brass 1/8" NPT female "T" and connected that to where the original sending unit was. This was because I didn't want to disconnect the original oil pressure light. From this tee, I used an adapter to 1/8" compression fitting, with which I ran 1/8" copper tubing to a convenient point at the frame by the handlebars. Since copper does not flex easily, I had to run the nylon type 1/8" hose from the frame to the handlebar mounted gauge. I used a 1/8" compression to 1/8" compression adapter to connect the copper to the nylon tubing. I surrounded the nylon tubing with small diameter rubber hose just for added security and resistance to possible rubbing. I had this gauge connected for about 20,000 trouble free miles.