by Bryan G.

I have tried several so called 'adapters' sold by the screen makers but with little success. The fittings they provided were either inadequate things that went onto the mirror posts or rather awkward u-clamp things that went around the rectangular bars.
    The other aspect is that most? screens when mounted are restricted by the turn signals from lowering fully over the headlamp. Who wants a screen unnecessarily high or one that creates a wind suck right at the front from that gap ?
    In any case I had little success and lesser hope of finding satisfaction until I started to think about the problem on my own, and I did think about it; stewed really.
    I have found a solution or more to the point _made_ one; and that is the message here. The trick is you have to fool the screen into thinking it is being mounted to the bars. Really very simple concept eh ? almost zenlike. 

Step By Step Instructions:

1) Relocate the Turn Signals:

These brackets are just flat pieces of steel with four strategically located holes in them.

You will remove your turnsignals and note a threaded bolt and a locator pin protruding from the end. These C/L's are the key to the strategically located holes. (See dwg: turnsignal's)
    The top pair of holes are where you will install the bracket using the existing TS holes. The bottom pair are set 2" lower and 1 1/2" forward of the first set. Some commonly available hardware along with the adaptors and you are set.

2) Fool your Wind Screen :
These brackets are designed to accommodate use of the adjuster rod fittings that come with the screens using a 3 point mounting system. Two of the points are the bolts that secure the master cylinder's in place. The third requires a small hole to be drilled in the rectangular bar; along with using a spacer (5/8" - 3/4 ") to hold the bracket parallel to and above the bar itself.
    This position mimics that of these fittings on a standard round bar.

Mechanical Drawings

The drawings I have prepared are " flat pattern / layout " sketches that any sheet metal fabricator should easily be able to produce for you. 

Some notes and thoughts about this project:

1)All dimensions given are based on MY 1983 V45 Sabre.   VERIFY all to YOUR satisfaction on YOUR bike prior to doing ANY work.

2) The brake master cylinder mount is rounded and will require some spacers for the bracket to fit against it squarely.  ( I used some flat washers to shim mine )

3) All FOUR master. cylinder mount bolts will have to be replaced with longer ones.

4) The drilling of the rectangular bars is not a big deal really. However, the casting on MINE allowed only one good flat spot for the bolt / nut to seat squarely. Look at yours carefully to VERIFY where the mounting bolt and its hole will BEST fit your bike.

5) My set were made of 14 gauge stainless. 16 gauge should be fine too but I wouldn't go any thinner. Regular steel that you can paint black might look even better.

My set up was installed early Oct. '96 and has survived a 3500 mile road trip and all the in-town & winter riding conditions since then,  all quite satisfactorily.