Recent Note (11-25-98):
I'm sorry to say that the V65 Society no longer exists, if it ever did. The good news is that it has sort of been encompassed into the MagSab group, which centers around an e-mail mailing list created in 1995 by Jude F. This list has grown to about 400 members worldwide, and is an excellent forum for sharing technical knowledge and learning more about the V-4's in general. Since the lists conception, there have been numerous get-togethers all around the world, for riding, wrenching and general tomfoolery. Joining the list is simple and free, see below and the FAQ (located in the links area) for details.

Table Of Contents:

Every V65 I have ever ridden seemed to emit a low level popping/spitting/backfiring sound during deceleration. I would tend to consider this normal. Perhaps if your exhaust system is loose or damaged, the popping sound may become loud and annoying, but on bikes with good exhaust, while the noise is there, it does not seem to be a problem.
One answer in a Q&A column to the owner of a "spittin' Magna" suggests checking the "air cut-off valve" in the carburetors, or checking for an air leak in one or more of the rubber intake collars which hold the carburetors to the cylinder heads. If you experience what seems to be abnormal backfiring, it certainly doesn't hurt to check into it, but don't go crazy. It may indeed be the normal inherent "spittin'" sound that almost every V65 seems to emit.

Regardless of what the manuals say, the V65 Sabre rear brake pedal height should be adjusted approximately 1/4" below the top of the footpeg, and the V65 Magna pedal, approximately 3/4" above the top of the footpeg. The Sabre's footpegs are about 8 inches behind those of the Magna, relative to the seat position. This difference in peg position causes the leg/foot angles to be different for each model, necessitating different brake pedal positions.

Most agree that the original OEM type accessory V65 case guards are the best. The problem is that they are hard to find. Even in salvage yards, most used case guards to be found will have already been damaged.
The OEM style case guard serves as an excellent spot to support the front end of the bike during servicing. Simply place the bike on it's centerstand. Then, anyone with average strength will be able to lift the front end of the bike off the ground by gripping the front rim with one hand. While doing so, slide a jackstand under the case guard with the other hand. In less than a minute, both wheels are off the ground with only the need for one small jackstand. Very convenient. However, be sure to position the bike and/or chuck a wheel in such a way so that the bike cannot accidentally move forward and cause the centerstand to collapse.

I noticed that according to the Honda shop manuals, the V65's alternator should deliver 25 amps minimum, no load, at 5,000 rpm. However, the Magna manual describes the output as 300W @ 5,000 rpm, while the Sabre manual says 350W at 5,000 rpm. (amps X volts= watts) Also, the shop manual calls for delivery of 10.2 amps minimum, no load, at 1,000 rpm. However, due to operating load, the owners manual reminds us to avoid prolonged idling, since "the battery will not charge while the engine speed is below 1,100 rpm."
Does anyone wish to calculate the total amount of amps normally being drawn from a running V65? If you figure a stock 60W highbeam, taillight (8W), front marker lights (16W), additional rear marker lights (16W), and instrument lights (about 15W ?), there's a total of 115 watts, or 10 amps being drawn from the lights alone, not counting the intermittent lights (brake light and turn signals). Swap in a 130W highbeam, and you're up to 185W, or 15 amps. Can anyone relate how many amps are drawn by the fuel pump, ignition system, and fan? Other? Many enthusiasts are interested in knowing how much room is left for electrical accessories with respect to the alternator capacity.

The following is a list of the original available colors offered per model, per year, based on personal experience and enthusiast responses. If there are any missing, please let me know.

V65 MAGNA
1983: medium blue ("Pearl Siren Blue" according to Keith Mazelin), and purple ("maroon"). Of the survey, 60% blue, and 40% purple. In a review, only blue and purple are listed as available colors. I have never seen a black `83 V65, but I have seen black `83 V45s. Anyone?
1984: medium maroon (burgundy as some call it), black, bright red, and a burnt orange red. Of the survey, 55% maroon, 44% black, 11% (one) bright red, and 11% (one) burnt orange red.
1985: medium maroon, very dark maroon (R137), and black. Of the survey, there were two dark maroon, one of each of the others. I never saw a red `85. Anyone?
1986: red ("Candy Glory Red", R101CU, according to Tom F.), and black. Of the survey, 85% red, 15% (one) black.

-Notes: The blue and purple were unique to `83 only. The shades of reds and maroons, over the years, and even within years, seem to vary. The 1984 Magna brochure lists only red and black... I guess they forgot to list the maroon, unless they consider the maroon a dark red. All colors except for black are metallic to my knowledge.

V65 SABRE
1984: black-silver-red stripe, black-maroon-silver stripe (NH1K). Of the survey, 66% blk-slv-rd, and 33% blk-mrn-slv.

 1985: black-silver-red stripe, black-silver-blue stripe. Of the survey, 50% blk-slv-rd, and 50% blk-slv-blu.

-Notes: It seems that all Sabres came with the same style three-tone paint scheme... one color predominantly on the top of the tank and on bottom portion of side covers (always black), second color on side of tank and trim, and third color, a stripe separating the other two colors. I've seen a few "one tone" black Sabres, but suspect they may have been repainted, as Kurt Grife's Sabre.

In the 1985 Sabre brochure, only the blk-slv-rd and blk-slv-blu colors are listed. I've never seen a blk-mrn-slv `85, nor a blk-slv-blu `84. Apparently, the blk-slv-rd was available in both years, but the maroon `84 only, and blue `85 only. Anyone?

Keith M. replaced his stock clutch at 40k. Bruce Bennett replaced his at 30k, and needs one again at 70k. Robert T. still has his original clutch at 107k.
The V65 uses a "wet" clutch, and thus it is traditionally not recommended to use fully synthetic oil. However, newer synthetics claim compatibility with wet clutches.
Bill A. has been experiencing a slipping clutch in his V65 Magna. Bill had been using Mobil 1, but has now switched to Honda HP4 oil. The clutch is still slipping, even though a mechanic has diagnosed the clutch itself as being in good order.
Kurt G. tried Castrol Syntec 5/50 in his V65 Sabre, and experienced immediate clutch slipping. He then switched to Mobil 1, and has since had no problems.
Nearly 30% of all V65 contributors claim to use Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, or other synthetic oils, and have not reported clutch problems.
It's still a bit of a mystery, whether or not certain synthetic oils will cause wet clutches to slip. Dig up your 8/96 copy of MCN, and re-read the synthetic oil reader forum response article on page 32. Some report immediate slipping, some report zero slipping. It seems to be a hit or miss situation. Many stick with regular motorcycle oil to play it safe.
Some enthusiasts have replaced their stock clutch with a kevlar Barnett clutch, and report that they work fine, feel just like stock. One Honda dealer once warned against using aftermarket clutches, stating that there was some incompatibility... something to do with steel to aluminum contact and wear... ? No troubles reported by those with aftermarket clutches however.
Thomas B. experienced an unpleasant clutch system failure on his V65 Sabre. He was stuck in heavy traffic in high heat, and gradually lost the operation of his clutch. Many others have had the exact same experience, including myself. The lever comes in, but the clutch will not disengage. If this should happen, pull over, stop the engine, and let things cool for a while. Once cooled, the clutch will operate again. Fully flush the clutch hydraulic system with brand new DOT 4 fluid from a sealed container a.s.a.p. (see HYDRAULIC SYSTEM)

The MagSab pages remind us to be careful when removing the right side engine cover, also referred to as the clutch cover. "The starter idler gear turns on a dowel pin between the clutch cover and crankcase. It can fall off when the cover is removed; be prepared so it doesn't get damaged. To get it back on, put a wrench on the crank and rotate it a little while working the gear back into place".
Note: some or all `86 V65 Magnas came with fully polished clutch covers, where as earlier models came with black painted covers, polished aluminum only in the center.

It is important that all electrical connectors be clean and tight to avoid wire/ connector meltdown problems, and other problems.
Permatex offers "dielectric tune-up grease", which is designed for use on electrical connections to seal out moisture/corrosion, and makes for easy uncoupling in the future. Perfect for spark plug wire connections too.
See the FAQ for further details.

On both Magnas and Sabres, there is a warning/information label affixed to the top of the gas tank near the filler cap. Many have expressed interest in removing the unsightly decal, but do not want to risk harming the original paint. Some feel that the decal would have been easy to remove when new, but after years of baking in the sun, etc., may never come off. Others have said it'll come right off with no problem, using an effective decal removing solution. Does anyone have any experience with this? I suspect that it would be impossible to remove the decal without leaving behind at least some small detectable blemish, if not making a big mess altogether. Plus, it may leave behind a fade ghost.

Aside from the obvious differences, the following are a few of the mechanical/ engine differences between the Magna and Sabre. Most of this info is detailed in the 5/84 CycleWord, and 7/84 Cycle articles.

The Sabre (VF1100S) has larger diameter carb venturis, a larger airbox, larger diameter exhaust header pipes, larger volume mufflers, and "wilder" cam timing, than the Magna (VF1100C).

Also, the Sabre's rear wheel is 17", using a 130 size tire. The Magna: a 16" rear wheel and 140 size tire. Note that because of the smaller Sabre tire, the Sabre's total rear wheel/tire diameter is only about 3/8" - 1/4" greater than the Magna's, even though the Sabre's rim is 1" greater. Being that the gearing is the same for both bikes, and the total rear tire diameters are nearly the same too, the total effective gear ratios are essentially the same. At the most, the Sabre's engine may spin a few hundred rpm less than the Magna's when at identical highway speeds in top gear.

So apparently, the Sabre was intended to yield a bit more horsepower with its wilder cams, larger exhaust, etc. However, after riding several V65 Sabres and Magnas, I did not notice any obvious performance difference between the two. It's a mystery to me why Honda would try to up the top end on the model intended for "sport touring". With its heavy fairing/hardbag option, larger diameter rear wheel, and long distance appeal, it would seem to make more sense to try to dial in a bit more low end if anything, not top end. On the other hand, the Magna was intended as a "muscle-bike" drag-race boulevard cruiser. It's a model that appeals specifically to the power hungry, and thus could use all the top end horsepower possible in order to win races. So why did Honda "hotrod" the Sabre as opposed to the Magna? Well, it doesn't matter much anyway, since again, the real world performance is about the same with both models. Even the magazine tests show that both the Magna and Sabre run about the same... both yield low-mid 11s in the quarter. According to the Honda shop manuals, the Sabre produces 118 h.p., and the Magna, 116 h.p. According to tests done by Cycle Magazine, the Sabre produces 101 h.p., and the Magna, 105 h.p. Essentially identical.

Sabres have "extra" brackets that solidly connect the front cylinder head to the front frame tubes, whereas Magnas do not. Why the extra "engine mounts" on the Sabre? The 7/84 Cycle article suggests that this is done for "extra chassis rigidity". I have noticed that my Sabre seems to vibrate a bit more than my Magna, especially at higher rpms. Before I had noticed the extra mounts, I thought that my Sabre's engine had a minor internal balance problem, but now I suspect that the extra vibration is simply due to the solid mounts. I haven't had a chance to ride any other V65 Sabres recently. Any thoughts or comments?

1983 V65 Magnas came with aluminum finish "5-point star" wheels, all others came with chrome finish "5-box" wheels. 1983 models came with unique blue and purple color schemes, the rest shared various reds, maroons, and black. Only 1983 and some 1984 models came with the three-piece adjustable-pullback handlebar... all others, a one-piece bar. 1983-`84s shared the same 160 mph speedometers, reading in increments of 10 starting with 10 (10, 20, 30, etc.), up to 160 mph. `85s came with different style numeral 160 mph speedometers, reading in increments of 10, starting with 5 (5, 15, 25, etc.) up to 155 mph, (but graded to 160 mph). According to a magazine review article, the `86's came with the same speedo as the `85's, but one enthusiasts claims his `86 has a 125 mph speedo. 1985 was the first year of the "push-in" turn signal switch and adjustable brake/clutch levers. Some or all `86 models apparently came with fully polished aluminum clutch covers... previous years, the covers were painted black with polished aluminum only in the center. 1986 models were offered in a specific candy-apple red unique only to that year. 1986's came with Sabre style front brake rotors, different from the earlier Magnas. Tony Donisi reports a different location of the hose outlet on the front master cylinders, between `84 and `86. Carburation probably became a bit leaner as the years progressed. After 1985, Honda began using different style 2nd and 3rd gears in the tranny. I'm sure there are more differences... please write in!

I don't really know of any, except for maybe the last few mechanical traits listed above. I haven't had an `84 and `85 side by side recently to compare. Anyone?

A 1984 Sabre test article points out a "disturbing amount of driveline lash". A very large number of contributors have complained of excessive play/lash in the drivetrain as well. Yes, both my Magna and Sabre are also loose, each to about the same degree.

While most peoples' initial reaction is to suspect the universal joint as being the source of the play, it seems that this is not be the problem. I would tend to rule out the U-joint, since if such noticeable play existed at the U-joint, it would lead to near term failure under the brut torque of the V65. I've never heard of a V65 experiencing a failed U-joint.

V65s have a "damper cam" device in the driveshaft. This device is designed to absorb shocks. If the damper cams and/or related spring is worn, excessive play will result. Several enthusiasts and mechanics feel that the damper cam system may be inherently weak, causing the lash.

However, Kurt Grife disassembled his driveline, and noted that his damper system "felt" tight, but audible play was detected in the transmission. Kurt points out that if the annoying play is coming from the tranny, the damper system will soften the effects of the tranny play, and actually help the situation.

With my fully assembled Sabre up on its centerstand and "locked" in first gear, I rocked the rear wheel back and forth within it's "loose play" range. As measured at the outer most tip of the tire, at the tread, the rear wheel will travel a total of 2 3/4" back and forth. It's hard to locate the source of the play, but noise is detected near or in the tranny, as Kurt noted. It's important to remember that this test does not take into account the load that exists when riding.

This driveline play, as described above, nearly caused R.J. Mirabal Jr. to drop his `86 V65 Magna when parking. R.J. suggests the following when parking nose-first down an incline and putting the tranny in gear to keep the bike from rolling: after putting the bike in gear, be sure to allow the bike to roll forward within its lash range, and positively "lock" against 1st gear BEFORE putting down the kickstand. Otherwise, the bike might roll forward enough to cause the kickstand to fold up, thus toppling the bike.

Sal Diliberto experienced a failed fan thermostatic switch at 5k, and replaced it with an OEM unit at the cost of $61.

According to the MagSab page, you can replace the stock thermostatic switch with an "ECHLIN #FS130" switch which can be obtained from a Napa Autoparts store for $28. This switch turns on at 191-197F (ascending) and off at 182-187F (descending). This is about 20 degrees cooler than the stock switch, which is rated to turn on at 208-215F. "The element is about 1/2" longer than the stock Honda one, but it screws in and has two bayonet connectors as found on early V4s". There are other switches that will work too, further info available on the internet.

If I remember correctly, there is a newer fan stat switch offered by Honda that operates at a cooler temperature than the original. Apparently, the current replacement fan switch designated for the V65 IS this new lower temperature version. Check the internet, as I have misplaced the details.

Some enthusiasts specifically wish to have their engines run cooler to help extend engine/camshaft life. To achieve this, they either use a manual fan switch, or use one of the newer lower temperature fan stat switches.

The V65 shop manual lists the opening temperature of the thermostat as being between 176-183F degrees. Of course, if one were to obtain a fan stat switch that turned the fan on at or below the thermostat opening point, the fan would often run unnecessarily, stressing the fan and battery. The specs of Napa ECHLIN switch described above would be the "coldest" I would personally recommend. (See GAUGES)

John Knepp's fan failed to work, but only the connector needed replacement.

Gaylon G. experienced a failed fan motor at 40k.

The Magna's front fender is quite small as James Parrot pointed out. Keith Mazelin has added a front fender mudflap to his Magna. I have also added a small mudflap to my fender in order to keep the front valve cover and engine from getting continually pelted with stones and mud. Because the clearance between the tire and fender is small, I used thin sheet metal to make the flap. I attached it by drilling a tiny hole in the fender and using a small nut and bolt. Installing such a mudflap will help extend the life of your front valve cover and engine finish.

Concerning the polished aluminum finishes, it is common to experience corrosion, which lifts the clear coat and damages the finish. Refer to the attached Q&A segment, "Unsightly Mess", which briefly describes a method for refinishing. In sum, you can strip off what's left of the old clear coat, buff and repolish the aluminum, and re-coat. As for the `84 and up wheels, the chrome plating commonly blisters off. The MagSab page mentions that the corrosion can get bad enough to cause chronic leaks at the bead sealing areas. The wheels can be refurbished by Holeshot, but this would cost roughly as much as new wheels. You can fix the wheels yourself, but it's difficult and expensive... more info on the internet. Hopefully you can just find a pair of used wheels at a salvage yard. Just make sure you can return them if you should discover unacceptable runout.

Concerning the black painted engine finish, several enthusiasts report good results using spray type cleaner/wax products, and oil based coating/cleaners such as WD40 and Armor-All. Oil type coating/cleaners give a deep wet shine, but pick up dust fast. Using regular wipe on wax is difficult, since it's hard to reach obscure areas with a rag, plus the wax will remain in the crevices and look terrible. Honda makes a spray cleaner that seems to work well, and is favored by enthusiasts.

I once spotted an absolutely showroom looking `85 V65 Sabre on the street. When I asked the owner how he kept it so fine, he replied that he had recently replaced a large percentage of corroded and flawed bolts, trim parts, covers, etc., with brand new replacements from Honda. Apparently, many parts are still available. However, I suspect that this method of refurbishing can be quite costly.

Apparently, only V65 Magnas and V45 Sabres came with the "F.O.I.L." Fiber Optic Integrated Lock.

Open your F.O.I.L. system battery compartment, and remove the old 9-volt battery before it leaks acid. However, replacing the battery cover without inserting a battery makes the cover difficult to remove in the future, though possible. Without the battery in place, no spring pressure is available to pop the cover out once releasing the latch.

Ray T. and a few others have cracked their OEM fork braces. After breaking two, Ray finally chose to machine an improved version out of billet 7075-T6 aluminum. Ray feels that perhaps the anti-dive until which affects only one of the fork tubes may cause stress on the brace, causing breakage. Ray relates that setting the anti-dive adjustment to "2" should make this tube act the same as the opposite non-anti-dive tube.

Both Ken St.Amant (Sabre) and Gaylon G. (Magna) have added a "Superbrace" heavy-duty fork brace to improve handling, but observed no noticeable improvement.

Tony Donisi had a terrible suspension failure at 85 mph resulting in a crash. (refer to attached story by Tony) He apparently noticed that the stock fork brace had separated perhaps contributing to the disaster, among other things. Afterwards, Tony used a new OEM stock brace, but added a support plate as well, machined out of T6061 aircraft aluminum, 3/8" thickness.

A large number of Magna and Sabre owners have had to replace their fork seals. A typical life is about 40k - 50k miles.

I had a bad leak on one of my old V45 fork seals. I removed the entire fork arm from the bike (fairly simple bolt-out procedure), but could not find a tool to remove the heavy ring clip which is recessed into the fork slider, and thus I could not remove the seal. Plus, I've heard that even with the right tool, the clip can be very difficult to remove. I brought the fork tube only to my local dealer, who then sold me a seal kit for $20, and charged me $24 to install. Some other dealers quoted me over $200 for an entire fork seal job on the bike. Others have reported paying around $150 -$180 for a complete seal job.

The reason my seal failed, was because there was a small rust pit, a tiny spot where the chrome had become raised, on the fork tube. This protrusion cut a notch in the seal, causing a big leak. The dealer tried to sell me a whole new tube, but instead, I carefully ground the raised spot down with a file, then polished it until extremely smooth. Though there resulted a tiny pit/hole on the tube, the new seal worked fine, and lasted a long time until I sold the bike, zero leakage. Tip: keep the fork tubes clean and waxed.

David Hickey also had a similar fork seal failure experience, caused by pits on the tube. He nearly purchased a new $225 tube, but instead had a mechanic emery cloth the old tube. A new seal was installed on the old tube, and 15k later, the seal is still fine.

If you look at the area where the fork tube goes into the fork slider, there is a rubber "seal". This is not the fork seal, but just an external "dust seal". Below that, on `83 and early `84 models (maybe `82 V45s also), there is a secondary "sponge/foam seal" and plastic washer. Then comes the actual fork oil seal. My dealer told me that there was a service bulletin issued that says to remove and discard the "sponge/foam seals" (and plastic washers too) if you have them, since they collect dirt and trap it near the oil seals. Then, I noticed in the Clymer repair manual, it stated to indeed remove and discard these "sponge/foam" seals, and for the reason: "the foam seal may work it's way down into the oil seal and give the appearance of a worn or leaking oil seal". I'm not sure exactly what they mean by that, but I suppose if you have an `83 or `84, and you note that you have these "foam/sponge" seals under the dust seals, remove them. Though I'm not certain, it may be possible to remove the unwanted foam seals without disassembling the fork. Perhaps pop the dust seal off and slide it up out of the way, then pick out the foam seal, cut it, and remove it. Has anyone tried?

Another tip to prolong the life of your seals, is to keep fork air pressure low. You may enjoy the stiffer handling produced by high air pressure, but it puts a strain on the seals. I once bought a used Magna, seals appeared fine for the first several days of riding. After observing zero psi in the forks, I added about 6 psi to stiffen the front, and the seals started leaking immediately.

Chuck Jenke recommends using rubber foam boots by Naj that cover the fork tube, to keep dirt/bugs off, etc.

I make it a point to clean the fork tubes often, especially during long high speed trips through buggy areas. Splattered bug guts can become surprisingly hard and abrasive once dry.

If you are changing the fork oil seals yourself, the MagSab page offers the following tip: instead of buying an expensive fork seal driver tool from Honda, you can make your own seal tool from a piece of PCV pipe. For V45s (39mm fork tubes), use 1.5" pipe. For V65s (41mm fork tubes), get a 2" pipe with a 1.5" coupler, then grind or rasp the coupler down so it will fit inside the fork body, and use a piece of 2" on top.

As most have experienced, it is difficult to keep the V65's front wheel on the ground during a full throttle acceleration in 1st and second gears. The wheel will skip up and down off the pavement, and at the very least, the forks will fully extend to max travel. Steering control is zero. Less Sabre owners complain of this problem than Magna owners. I think that the Magna's design (rider position and suspension) is more wheelie evoking. Regardless, here's a tip for all V65 owners: before accelerating hard, be sure to first aim the bike in the proper direction, just as if you were launching a rocket (which is basically what you are doing).

My local Honda dealer once mentioned that when the V65 first came out, he recalls getting in wrecks due to people flipping them.

Once, on my V65 Magna, with passenger and fairly heavy load on the rear carrier, I was lured into a little street drag. I punched the throttle in low gear at about 3,500 rpm, and without warning, the front wheel suddenly came way up off the ground. I pulled one very large unintentional wheelie. I lost all control, and came VERY close to flipping. Lessons learned: #1 - Avoid putting heavy loads on the rear carrier. #2 - Avoid full throttle punches in low gear with a passenger aboard. The extra rear weight can make the bike downright dangerous.

To reduce the possibility of losing front wheel control during hard acceleration, it is recommended to tightening up the suspension adjustments a bit. Sit/lean forward, and try to shift your weight from the seat to the handlebars and foot pegs.

Many enthusiasts have switched to aftermarket fuel filters. I currently use a Purolator PRO #804, 1/4". It is a multi-piece glass case filter with replaceable inner mesh element. It's a bit longer with less diameter than the stock filter, but will fit fine. It's nice to have a glass "see-through" filter for easy trouble-shooting. Also, you can keep an eye on the fuel quality, dirt, rust, etc. This Purolator filter is tagged at 10psi max. It has never leaked a drop.

One V4 owner that had experienced a fuel pump failure told me that he was able to swap in a typical automotive fuel pump which cost less than the Honda-cycle part. I'm guessing that any Japanese auto (Toyota, Honda, etc.) pump with similar dimensions and specs will work. Any comments or part numbers?

I experienced a failed fuel pump relay on my `83 V45 Magna at about 40k miles... about $40. A few others have experienced the same.

Interestingly, the bike would continue to run without an operating fuel pump, running on gravity feed from the full fuel tank. The bike would barely go over 20 mph however, before coughing and starving for fuel. If your fuel pump should fail to operate in the middle of nowhere, and if the tank is fairly full, you may be able to ride (slowly) back to civilization... worth a try.

Many enthusiasts wish their Magnas had a larger fuel capacity. The Magna can hold 5.3 gallons total: 4.5 main tank + 0.8 reserve tank. Most travel about 150 miles before the reserve warning light comes on. After that, if you're careful, you can squeeze 15 -20 more miles out of what's left. Don't count on this however, since over the years, the reserve warning light senders used were a bit different. Some report getting over 20 miles after the light comes on, some report only 10, etc. A friend replaced the sender in his V45, and the replacement was noticeably shorter than the original. Some have said that if you have a deep sender that does not give enough of a warning, the sender leg can be bent upward so as to cause the light to come on earlier.

Sabre owners enjoy a greater total fuel capacity of 5.8 gallons, a half gallon more than the Magna. The Sabre has just one main fuel tank, no reserve tanks, but has a full LED fuel gauge. The Sabre shop manual lists a 5.8 gallon main tank, plus a 1 gallon reserve. Perhaps an error.

Tip: don't excessively overfill your tank in hopes of obtaining a greater range. If you top off the tank too much, you will encounter a spill over, due to the expansion of the cold fuel once entering the hot tank. You may fill it to what seems to be a safe half-inch or so below the cap, but soon after, even if the cap is closed, fuel will begin flowing out from under the cap and all over the place. Leave at least an inch of safety margin below cap... maybe more on very hot days.

When I had purchased my V65 Magna, it had a bad case of rust in the main fuel tank. Fortunately there were no leaks yet. I purchased the most expensive heavy duty fuel tank sealer sold by Eastwood Restoration (sealer #1161) back in 1992, followed all directions to a tee, and applied the sealer. I used Rust-mort (available at auto paint suppliers) to etch the tank prior to sealing. Now, five years later, my tank is perfect, zero problems. The rust is permanently sealed, and absolutely none of the sealer has melted or peeled off, even using occasional fuel additive and stabilizer. Recommendation: if you need to repair your tank, buy only a high quality sealer, and follow the directions VERY carefully, in order to avoid a big mess.

The MagSab page notes that the standard liquid tank liner available and marketed toward bikes is called Kreem, and the SabMags offer the following helpful tips for those who intend to treat their tanks with Kreem:

"Don't buy the kit containing one bottle each of the three solutions, since you'll need more than one bottle of etching solution. However, one bottle of the liner is plenty, good enough for 2 to 3 tanks. The kit recommends to shake around some nuts and bolts inside the tank to loosen the rust. Since some find it hard to remove the nuts and bolts after, another alternative is to use a chain instead, and hold the end for easy removal. All the involved solutions are harmful to the paint, so be careful. To dry the solutions inside the tank, you can use a shop vac set to exhaust mode to circulate air throughout. (I'll add that I had used a hose adapted to my small household dehumidifier, to circulate low pressure dry air throughout the tank for over 24 hours.) Before drying, make sure the fuel outlets/connections are open, and not clogged with solution. (I'll also add that there were several articles in past MCN issues that described multiple failures when using Kreem... the Kreem peeled off over time, clogging the tank, the only fix being to cut tank open to remove debris. However, apparentIy, if the directions are followed perfectly, the Kreem system should work o.k.)

Concerning the stock bar-style temperature gauge, the MagSab pages offer the following temperature equivalents:

1 bar, 115F;

2 bars, 129F;

3 bars, 162F;

4 bars, 199F;

5 bars, 216F;

6 bars, 239F;

7 bars, 266F

The first two bars are considered the "warm up" period. Bars 3 to 6 denote normal operating temperature. The bikes usually operate in the 3 to 4 bar range, unless in traffic where the 5 to 6 bar range will most likely be encountered. The fan should keep the engine from exceeding the 6 bar mark. The seventh bar means danger, and under normal circumstances should never be encountered. If 7 bars should appear, shut off the engine and look for a problem... (low coolant level, inoperative fan, bad thermostat, etc.)

Jeff Dean continues to get a high reading on his V65 Magna temperature gauge, even after replacing the coolant, radiator cap, thermostat, and fan thermo switch. Jeff suspects that his gauge is at fault, yielding a higher reading than correct, as referred to in a past Honda service report.

Robert T. had the bezel around the instrument cluster disintegrate twice on his `85 Sabre. Rob suggests to tighten the screws just past finger tight when replacing the bezel so as not to stress it.

The 1985 Sabre brochure lists a voltmeter and altimeter as "optional Hondaline equipment". Has anyone ever seen these? Describe.

Despite what some manuals say, 1983 V65 Magnas came with a "three-piece" adjustable handlebar. Most `84s, and all `85's-`86's came with a typical one-piece handlebar. Apparently, both `84 and `85 V65 Sabres came with a three-piece adjustable bar. I believe that the three piece bar used on the Magna and Sabre are the same, except that the Magna version is chrome, the Sabre version, black. One test article states that the Sabre bars are a few inches shorter than the Magna's. Anyone?

The three-piece bar is nice, and allows you to adjust the degree of bar pullback, in addition to the regular adjustment at the triple-clamp. The Magna three-piece version has nearly the same height or "rise" as the later Magna one-piece version.

Most feel that both the one and three piece type bars used on these bikes are too tall. Stock bars, even if adjusted forward, allow too much of a leaned back posture. Such a seating position will have your lower back burning with pain in a relatively short amount of time... sore arms too. Many Magna owners, including myself, have switched to lower bars. Big improvement! A lower bar allows a more leaned forward posture, which seems to shift the stress from the lower back to the upper back and shoulders. Typically, the upper back is stronger and is better suited for endurance than the lower back. Adding a lower handlebar to my Magna made enough of an improvement to allow a pleasant and comfortable 8,600 mile trip across the country in under three weeks.

Commonly, handlebar manufacturers measure their bars in three ways: overall length, rise, and pullback. My general recommendation is to obtain a bar with about 2"-3" less rise than stock, and about 2" less pullback than stock.

I would recommend the exact model bar I currently use (old Yamaha touring), but unfortunately, it has been discontinued. However, there are others out there that are very similar in size, and will work fine. My "Yamaha" bar came as a 33" length, but I chopped an inch off either end to make it a bit more to my liking.

The following are a few handlebar recommendations specifically for Magnas. Such sized bars will probably work fine on Sabres too. However, Sabres with the original sport fairing may have trouble accepting certain bars, possibly experiencing bar to fairing interference.

A bar rise less than 4" along with a pullback greater than 6" may result in bar to tank interference. It depends on the exact shape of the bar, and how one likes them adjusted. A bit of trial and error may be involved.

Note: bars used on Magnas/Sabres must have a good 9" or so of straight length from the end of the bar (on each side) to the beginning of the first curve. Otherwise, the controls/grips won't slide on all the way, and the grips will be hanging past the ends of the bar.

It seems that V65s, as well as many other bikes, will produce a front end shake during deceleration. If you are slowing down, hands very lightly on the handlebar, the fork will want to shake back and forth if you let it. Some tires seem to promote this problem more than others. Regardless, all V45s/V65s I have ever ridden produce the same results. As long as you hold the handlebar reasonably firm (as you should be anyway), the fork should not shake, nor should it fight against you.

Gaylon G. reports head shake at 30 - 40 mph with hands off bars... same as above. Gaylon notes however, that the shake effect he experienced became reduced after switching to Dunlop 491s from Dunlop Qualifiers.

Ken St.A. reports great instability at over 120 mph with his `85 V65 Sabre... handlebars shake back and forth, sometimes severely, especially on curves. More stable with a passenger however. Adding a "Superbrace" fork brace did not help. I did notice that Ken has a windshield/fairing as listed on his questionnaire.

James Parrot reports high speed instability with his `85 V65 Magna specifically with his windshield.

Malcolm Davies reports that his `85 Sabre wallows a bit over 100 mph, perhaps the result of soft suspension settings.

Many complain of front end lightness... loss of steering control upon hard acceleration. (see FRONT END LIGHTNESS).

Ray T. reports that the stock V65 cylinder head castings are terrible, and the ports could use a good deburring/cleaning for improved performance. In addition, Ray has treated his heads to a three angle valve seat cut, noting that the factory seats were pitted and way out of spec.

Several Honda owners report horn failure. This is usually due to corrosion. Since new Honda horns are expensive, most owners either grab used ones from a salvage yard, or buy aftermarket horns. When buying from a salvage yard however, have the horns tested before you pay. The larger percentage of used horns do not work.

I recently experienced a horn failure. I checked and cleaned all connections, still wouldn't beep. I then got angry, removed the plastic trim, and whacked it hard a few times. It then began to beep again as usual.

The MagSab page relates that aftermarket air horns by Fiamm are loud, and highly regarded by several V65 owners. They can be found at some auto supply stores. Malcolm Davies was able to order Fiamms for his Sabre through the J.C. Whitney auto catalog for $20. Whitney lists the dual trumpet Fiamms under the name "Signaltone", part #12NZ8359Y.

Rusty Marcotte has added a pair of car horns to his Sabre.

I have met owners who have never flushed their hydraulic lines since 1983, without problems. However, to avoid experiencing hydraulic failures on the road, it is strongly recommended to flush all hydraulic lines at least once every two years. The hydraulic fluid (DOT 4 brake fluid) absorbs moisture over time, and eventually becomes susceptible to vapor lock under high heat conditions... the clutch system usually goes first, and causes the clutch to become inoperable.

When flushing the lines, always use brand new fresh DOT 4 fluid from a sealed container. Two 12 oz. bottles of fluid are enough to fully flush all three systems. Don't buy more than you need, because whatever is left over should technically be discarded, unless you intend on using it in the near future. Be careful not to spill any fluid, as it will harm painted/ finished surfaces.

Many report a noticeable improvement in brake response after replacing the original rubber hydraulic lines with braided stainless steel lines. Such are available from Russell for about $165, about the same cost as OEM replacements. As the MagSab page points out, if you pick up a set of Russells, be sure the banjo fittings are correctly positioned on the lines so that there is no tendency for the lines to want to twist when installed. If an apparent twisting problem is noted, return them for another set. Also, you can make your own set of braided hoses using AN-3 line and appropriate fittings.

As the MagSab page describes, the V65 ignition system is often referred to as a CDI (capacitor discharge ignition), but is actually a more advanced transistorized system. There are basically two separate systems, one for cylinders 1 & 3, and one for cylinders 2 & 4, with the major components of each being the pulse generator, spark unit, and coil. Base timing is determined by a protrusion (reluctor) on the starter clutch as it passes the pulse generators. The MagSab page relates that the 1-3 cylinder spark unit controls the tach, so if power is down and the tach is misbehaving, the 1-3 unit is the culprit.

Bruce Bennett experienced a failed spark unit at 69k miles. He notes that the units are easy to check: "Cylinders 2 & 4 dead? Swap units. 2 & 4 now work, and 1 & 3 are dead? Unit bad."

The MagSab page also recalls a report of a coil that tested good when checked via the test procedure in the Honda manual, but tested bad at dealer's shop. Thus, if you should have problems with the firing of 1-3 or 2-4 cylinders and it isn't the spark units, it might be a good idea to have the coils tested by a qualified shop.

In a brief magazine blurb, a V65 Sabre owner reports a dramatic increase in performance just from swapping in aftermarket Andrews coils, and Accel Superpro 7 ignition wires. He then goes on to say, "it was literally as if carb jetting and valve and ignition timing had been off all along and were now suddenly spot on". Maybe his stock coils, plugs, wires, were a little off to begin with.

Tom F. reports having experimented with Accel high performance coils on his friend's dyno, and noticed absolutely no difference over stock. He claims that Accel even discourages replacement of functional stock coils.

Most hotrodders know that there's not much to be gained from an ignition system swap unless the factory system is poor to begin with. Either you have a good spark (and proper timing) or you don't. The V65 ignition seems to do the job just fine from idle clean up to redline. Any other reports?

At around 40k miles, the ignition switch on my `83 V45 Magna failed. The internal contacts were dirty. A mere wiggle of the key would cause the engine to shut off. I was about to purchase a new switch, but decided to pull apart the old one first. If my memory serves me correctly, I had to pry it apart, but once I did, I was able to clean all the internal contacts. I crimped it back together, and it worked excellent.

I noticed that aftermarket replacement ignition switches are available from J.C. Whitney and other catalogs for 500, 700, 750 Magnas, etc., but not V65s.

As Tom F. has described, you can get a high power headlight bulb for increased illumination. The stock bulb is a 60/55 W. Tom and others recommend the 130/90 W. I recently chose a 100/80 W as a good compromise. No one has yet reported any problems using high power bulbs in V65s.

Also, upon Tom F.'s recommendation, I've picked up a rear "Superbulb", a high- intensity 1157 dual-filament taillight bulb. It's noticeably brighter than stock, and I'm very happy with it. The stock bulb is rated at 32/3 cp (candlepower), 23/8W. The high-intensity version is rated at 50/14 cp, probably about 32/13W. The high intensity bulbs are also marketed under names other than "Superbulb".

The MagSab page informs us that if the headlight should fail, either the high or low beam, check for voltage at the starter switch terminal to the headlight. (The starter switch turns the headlight off while cranking.) The problem may be due to a dirty contact. If cleaning the contacts does not help, "you may have to buy an entire starter/kill switch assembly, since individual switches aren't sold separately."

The MagSab page states that if you should experience a taillight failure, it may be the cause of dirty or worn contacts in the ignition switch, which has separate circuits for the taillight and main power.

You can easily improve the rear visibility of your bike by adding front turn signal light sockets and bulbs into the rear turn signal housings... or simply just get a pair of complete front turn signal lights/housings to replace the rears. The front turn signals use dual filament bulbs, and thus the low filaments can be wired to glow full time as extra rear tail lights or "marker lights", while the bright filaments remain reserved for the turn signal.

Back in 1992, I purchased a pair of RED (not amber) replacement lenses for my Magna's stock rear turn signals... from Dennis Kirk, part #21-252 (DH6R). I don't think Kirk carries them anymore. Somebody must still carry them. Anybody? These red lenses are a nifty addition if you run full time rear marker lights.

It is not legally correct in all places to run full time rear marker lights as described above. Perhaps using red lenses as opposed to amber makes it more correct? I've put over 65k miles on bikes with full time rear marker lights, red and amber... never had a problem with the law, or at inspection.

The maximum load capacity of the V65 Magna is 370 lbs., while the capacity of the V65 Sabre is 410 lbs. I suspect that this difference has to do with the fact that the Sabre has a rear hydraulic mono-shock that can be pressurized from 0-57 psi, vs. the Magna's meager twin side springers. From experience, I can say that the Magna will handle nearly 350 lbs. quite well. Comments?

Sal Diliberto (`84 V65 Magna) apparently tows a Bushtec trailer. Trailer info?

Who says V65s are not suited for long hauls? In fact, after the addition of an aftermarket seat and handlebars, the V65 can be considered one of the best long distance high performance bikes around... heavy, smooth, quiet, reliable... over 100 horsepower.

Now for the V65 Society Long Distance Awards: First place would have gone to Jack Hart, having completed a trip of 9,000 miles. But since he did so on an 1100 Shadow, not a V4, it will not be counted. However, Jack has completed several near 3,000 mile trips upon V65 Magnas.

First place goes to both Demetri Kokkoris and Dave Miranda (that's me), for running our V65 Magnas over 8,600 miles in three weeks, from New York to San Francisco and back, with lots of exploring in between. Thus we averaged 430 miles per day for 20 consecutive days. Mechanical problems encountered between both bikes: a shorted spark plug wire during a heavy rainstorm... remedied in less than 10 minutes; a loose battery cable... tightened in less than five minutes; and a battery that had consumed nearly all of its water (forgot to check it), but gave no trouble until after returning home.

Sal Diliberto completed a round-trip through Alaska from Fremont, CA, aboard his V65 Magna... 6,800 miles in 6.5 weeks. Ray T. ran his V65 Sabre 6,600 miles from Ottawa, Ontario, to Vancouver, B.C., and back. Gaylon G. took his V65 Magna 6,000 miles from Beaumont, TX, through New York and Canada. Both Kurt Grife (Sabre) and Dewey Brownback (Magna) completed 5,500 mile jaunts. At least 50% of the remaining contributors have taken their V65s on various 2,000 - 4,000 mile excursions.

The endurance award goes to Dave Okerlund, having ridden 1,080 miles in 20 hours aboard his V65 Magna during the Utah 1088 Endurance ride. That's an average of 54 mph for 20 consecutive hours! Incidentally, Dave helps host a road rally each year for the Utah British MC Club on highway 12, Utah. He may be interested in doing the same for V65 enthusiasts. If interested, drop him a note.

Bill Austin remembers the first thing that made him want to purchase a V65 back in 1983: the original Honda V65 television commercial. As Bill recalls, "The commercial started out with a Magna on the starting line of a drag strip, when suddenly it erupts into a smokey burnout, then the camera cuts to a real time shot of the finish line as the Magna comes blasting past in a blur, then the announcer says, `Need we say anything more?... the new Honda Magna.'"

Emory Johnson says that the person that sold him his Magna claims there was a video made showing V65s at Indy, testing performance, etc... perhaps a Honda promotional video. I wrote to Honda inquiring as to the whereabouts of such classic V65 footage. Honda responded that they do not retain promotional materials after a product goes out of production. Does anyone know where such V65 footage could be viewed or obtained?

An enthusiast claims that there exists a nice poster of a nude girl upon a V65 Magna. Such a poster was offered years ago by a company called "Image Masters" of Encino, CA. After several enthusiasts had made vigorous attempts to locate the original Image Masters, it was determined that this company is long gone, and the poster nowhere to be found. Might anyone actually have a copy of the poster, or have any leads?

In the movie, "The Rookie", starring Clint Eastwood, there are a few brief scenes of actor Charlie Sheen riding a V65 Magna. At one point in the story, Charlie becomes annoyed, and kicks the Magna onto its side. The Magna scenes are very brief, and the movie is not that great, so do not bother renting it.

1986-`89 editions of the Guinness Book of World Records, and possibly other editions as well, list the V65 Magna as being the "fastest road motorcycle", with a "design speed of 173 mph".

The average of the magazine test article mpg measurements is about 39 mpg. The figures that came in from the owner responses ranged from 32 to 50 mpg. The most common average numbers were from 38 - 42 mpg, in line with the magazine tests. This is also the range that my own bikes fall between. Many expect their Magna fuel lights to pop on around the 150 mile mark, which makes sense.

As most probably know, accessories such as a large windshield, fat saddlebags, etc., make a noticeable dent in mpg. Also, pulling wheelies at every stop light, and hitting warp 3 every time there's a quarter mile stretch ahead will certainly yield less mpg than if just delicately skating along the highway.

I noticed that travelling at high speeds cuts mileage down significantly. Normally my Magna (with windshield/saddlebags) will yield about 42 mpg when travelling at 60 mph. However, when travelling at a steady 85+ mph, I am lucky to yield 34 mpg. Other owners report the same experience/results.

As Ray T. has pointed out, the proper engine oil level is achieved when the level is exactly halfway up the starter motor drive gear (tiny gear) which is visible through the oil fill hole, with the bike on it's centerstand.

V65 owners use both 20W-50 and 10W-40 viscosities. Some believe 20W-50 is better because it's "thicker", and that such will better protect the cam bearings, etc. According to an internet oil FAQ article by Ed Hackett, 20W-50 is better than 10W-40 in theory, for reasons having to do with the amount of polymers added to each.

Regardless, unless you live in the dessert where 90+ degree temperatures are experienced most of the time, I and others recommend using 10W-40 all year round, or a similar weight synthetic that is compatible with the clutch. The people at Maxima Racing Oils (which used to be called "Magna" Oils until Honda made them change the name) assured me that using 10W-40 all year round is 100% fine, even in warm climates... 20W-50 is optional, but not necessary.

Heavy oil, such as 20W-50, does not flow as fast, especially when cold. It may not readily reach all friction points upon cold start up as quick as 10W-40 might. Plus, heavier oil makes for more difficult, clunkier shifting. One V65 owner whose bike had been fed 20W-50 for years, claims his clutch was dragging, almost impossible to get into 1st gear. After several oil changes using 10W-40, the problem has noticeably lessened.

The V65 seems to behave very well with 10W-40. In the last few years, I've made several 1000+ mile trips in maximum summer heat, with passenger and full load, climbing steep mountains, an occasional drag race, etc., running only 10W-40. Cams, valves, everything, perfect. Of course, I change the oil frequently.

Many of the contributing V65 enthusiasts use the Honda HP4 oil. Others use everything from Castrol regular auto oil, to Mobil 1 synthetic, Spectro Golden, etc.

According to the MagSab page, Megacycle does not recommend Golden Spectro oils, saying they don't provide enough protection for the cams and followers. Others have considered Golden Spectro to be just fine. ?

Motorcycle oils claim to have "anti-sheering" additives, to reduce the accelerated viscosity breakdown caused by the transmission. Automotive oils may not live up to this requirement, being that auto oils are not designed to lubricate a transmission. The viscosity of the auto oil will break down quicker in a motorcycle. Many seem to feel it's o.k. to use standard auto oil as long as it's changed at relatively short intervals, such as every 1,500 miles. If you don't use your bike often, this might be a good economical plan. However, if you ride a lot, and don't want to be changing your oil every five minutes, it's preferred to use a motorcycle type oil that will last longer. Most recommend changing such oil every 3,000 miles or so.

Robert T.'s `85 V65 Sabre which he bought new is running fine with 107k on the odo. Rob has used typical auto motor oil since day one... Castrol, Havoline, and the like... oil change interval, about every 3,500 miles. Rob reports that his original cams are fine... very small pits if anything.

With the V4 cam problems in mind, most enthusiasts consider it vital to use the best oil possible to help prolong cam life. It seems to be a never ending controversy as to what is the best oil to use. Synthetics are hailed as superior, but some may not be cost effective, and may harm the clutch. There does not seem to be any hard answers in this department. (see CLUTCH) Also see the 8-96 issue of MCN, page 32.

Dale Walker (Holeshot Performance Products) specifically recommends using an oil additive called X-1R, and claims it will not harm the clutch. Dale says it can be used in the engine or rear-end, and that most users notice a quieter, cooler running engine, better shifting, etc. On the contrary, the fore mentioned internet oil FAQ article states, "oil additives should not be used... they MAY upset the balance [of the cooperating agents in the base oil] and prevent oil from performing to specification".

In the end, if you really want to be on the safe side, and don't mind the extra cost, use any top name regular motorcycle oil, and change it frequently, such as at 2,000 mile intervals. Though synthetics claim to provide extra advantages, they still have not yet been determined to be truly clutch friendly. Also, it seems that less than top quality oils will still lubricate well when first added, but tend to break down faster than true top quality oils. Short oil change intervals will nearly guarantee maximum protection no matter what you use. Or perhaps, as Rob T. might suggest, just grab some Havoline for fifty-nine cents a quart at K-mart every 3,500 miles, and you should have no trouble coaxing over 107k trouble free miles from your engine. It's purely an individual choice, and depends on your riding style as well.

To my knowledge, there are four different brands of oil filters available for the V65... the Honda #15410-MJ0-003, the Fram #PH6010A, the Emgo #10-82211 (black) and 10-82201 (chrome), and a brand called Cycle Power, made in Japan.

The Emgo units are cheap, and appear to be cheaply made. These are the filters referred to in the motorcycle catalogs as "import filter". On the side of the Emgo filter box, it says "do not exceed 1,500 miles without checking and changing this oil filter". They are probably just protecting themselves, but perhaps they are indeed indicating that one cannot trust the filter's integrity beyond 1,500 miles.

I'm not familiar with the Cycle Power brand, but apparently they're expensive. Perhaps similar to OEM?

Most enthusiasts use the Honda or Fram. According to an internet source, Fram apparently produced some defective motorcycle filters a while back... the #PH6017 (for Goldwing, VFR, etc.). Apparently, this particular run of defective filters would occasionally burst under pressure, especially in race vehicles, spilling oil and causing accidents. Regardless, no problems have been reported with the V65 type Fram #PH6010A to my knowledge, and they seem to be fine.

I did happen to get one defective Fram #PH6010A once, but it was an immediately noticeable type defect, so no damage was encountered. As I spun the filter on, I noticed it wobbling. The attachment hole of this defective filter had been bored and tapped off angle so as to not allow the filter to screw on or seat squarely. I wrote a letter to Fram explaining the defect, and that I had wasted a bit of expensive motorcycle oil due to the defect, and Fram sent me a check for $20 to cover my loss. I haven't had any problems since. Incidentally, I've heard reports of similar defects on other popular brand automotive filters.

Todd DeVito reminds us to make sure the old oil filter rubber gasket is not stuck to the engine case before installing a new filter.

Rob T. uses oil filters designated for 1985 Honda Accord automobiles on his V65 Sabre. He's been using them since day one, when he bought his Sabre new. 107k miles later, the bike is still running fine! The appealing thing about auto filters is that they can often be obtained at a third of the price of motorcycle filters.

The filters designated for the 1985 Accord have the same threaded hole and seal size to the Honda V65 filter... basically identical, except the case is a bit longer. The 1985 Accord filter Rob uses is: Fram #PH3807A, AC #PF1051, Purolator L24458, etc. I've also noted that the filter designated for the 1995 Accord will also fit the V65, and is basically the same as the 1985 Accord filter, but the case is shorter... closer in size to the actual V65 filter. The 1995 Accord filter is: Fram #PH3593A, AC #PF1230, Purolator #L14459, etc. In the Fram book, both the PH3807A and the #PH3593A are listed as suggested replacements for the 1985 Accord.

How does the automobile filter compare to the motorcycle filter internally? According to an internet article by Robyn Landers, a Honda rep told Paul Laskowski that bypass valves on car oil filters are often set to open at around 60-90 psi, where as bypass valves on cycle filters, due to the high revs of most bikes, are typically set to open at around 90-120 psi. This sounds logical, but one cannot trust a biased source. I did note however, that the published oil pressure spec for a 1989 Accord is 54 to 65 psi at 3000 rpm. This is less than the V65's spec of 77 psi (+/-10 psi) at 5000 rpm... and the V65's rev range goes far past that of the Accord engine.

No conclusive evidence has yet been uncovered to determine whether or not it is detrimental to use the car filter on the motorcycle. Though Rob T. has been very successful using car filters, this does not necessarily mean that all V65 owners will have the same success. Rob has probably spent the last nine years treating his Sabre with loving care, lots of gentle highway use, not much hardcore drag racing, etc. Other enthusiasts who instead enjoy spirited high-rpm antics may not receive the same effective degree of protection from an auto filter.

To conclude, the auto filter will work, but unless you change it often and keep revs relatively low, you may be at risk of "riding the bypass" more than you should be, thus allowing an excessive amount of unfiltered oil reach the crank, rods, etc.

The Honda oil filter #15410-MM9-003 (for Goldwing, etc.) will fit the V65, and has a smaller diameter case than the stock filter. Such a filter can be used when encountering filter clearance problems using oil mod kits.
 

The MagSab page reminds us to be aware that the oil pressure switch hole in the V4 engine is metric, and just slightly smaller than the common 1/8" NPT as found on most test gauges. You'll need a male metric M12 x 1 to female 1/8" NPT adaptor, as can be found at auto part suppliers.

The pressure switch is located in the filtered oil path going toward the engine's bottom end, and does not represent flow/pressure going toward the transmission and cylinder heads.

Most average size passengers find the placement of the V65 passenger footpegs too high and too far back. The resulting leg position is unbearable for long trips.

Bruce Bennett figured out a neat way to mount passenger folding floor boards to Magnas. (refer to diagram) Get a hold of an extra set of stock passenger footpeg mount brackets (aluminum triangle shaped brackets), and mount them on top of the existing passenger footpeg brackets in an upside-down manner as shown on the diagram. This bracket arrangement allows the mounting of typical aftermarket passenger folding floorboards. Bruce reports no cornering interference, but the boards do get in the way of the pilot's legs when maneuvering the bike with feet on the ground.

I provided a comfortable passenger footpeg arrangement on my Magna by bolting typical clamp-on type highway pegs onto my 7/8" saddlebag support pipes. (see SADDLEBAGS) I had to pin each with a small nut and bolt to keep them from moving around.

Gaylon G. experienced a failed rear differential unit at 40k miles. It cost $500 to replace with a used rear. Gaylon had been using Honda gear oil, and now uses Spectro synthetic gear oil.

The Honda manual recommends a rear end oil change interval of 24k. However, as cheap insurance, many enthusiasts recommend a much shorter interval, such as 8k or less. Changing the rear end oil is very easy to do, and the rear only takes about 60 cents worth of regular 80W-90 gear oil.

Unlike the dual external rear spring-shock arrangement on Magnas, Sabres utilize a hydraulic mono-shock. These units are considered "unrepairable".

Ken St.Amant experienced oil leakage from his unit, but was able to find a good used one to replace.

Ernest Kenny experienced oil leakage from his unit, but found a Honda dealer in Murfreesboro, TN, that was able to repair it. (1-800-342-1681, or 615-893-0150) According to Ernest, they did a great job for only $85, a heck of lot cheaper than the cost of a new unit which is about $500.

Also, as Ray T. has pointed out, check page 28 of the 1/96 issue of MCN. There's an article about rear mono-shock rebuilds by Lindemann Engineering. The writer explains how the shock in his VF750F Interceptor was getting tired, but Lindemann performed an "oil transfusion", and brought it back to life... for only $60 plus shipping. Lindemann Engineering 520 McGlincy Ln. #3, Campell, CA 95008.

As with front forks, I recommend keeping the air pressure in the rear mono-shock as low as possible for increased seal life. It seems that many who keep the pressure very high experience failures. The recommended pressure range for the Sabre rear shock is 0-57 psi... there's a big difference between 0 and 57 psi. I mostly ride solo with very little load on my Sabre. I find the bike rides excellent with between 0 - 5 psi, especially over the relentless NYC potholes. In addition, keeping a lower air pressure in the shock and forks will ultimately yield a slightly lower ride height, which may be desirable for those with shorter legs.

John Knepp recommends using Amsoil synthetic grease when lubricating the rear suspension... "the Amsoil doesn't wash out like regular grease". John notes that disassembling the rear suspension linkage in order to grease is "a pain". Does anyone know of an easier way to lube the rear suspension linkage, swing arm, etc.? The manuals are not clear on this.

Concerning Magna rear shocks, many complain of excessive stiffness. Many have sought softer rear shocks, but from what I have heard, all aftermarket shocks that have been tried have yielded the same or even stiffer response than the stockers. Keith Mazelin has reported satisfaction with a set of Konis. Can anyone recommend a good specifically "soft" aftermarket shock for the Magna?

I often carry a passenger and heavy load on my Magna, and keep my rear shock settings weak to reduce stiffness. I'll occasionally bottom out in the shock travel, but mildly. It's tolerable. So, if you don't like the stiffness, and aren't ready to try aftermarket shocks, try weakening the adjustments considerably, and experiment. You'd be surprised at how weak you can adjust the suspension without problems.

Gaylon G. experienced "rough and sticking" Magna rear shocks at 70k miles, and they now need replacing.

There are two popular repair manuals that exist for the V65: the Official Honda Shop Manual, and the Clymer manual. It is strongly recommended to have at least one of these by your side before attempting any mechanical servicing.

The Official Honda Shop Manual comes per specific model, Magna or Sabre, V65 or V45, etc., and is thus very specific per model. For the most detailed info per your bike, especially if about to tackle a big job, the Honda manual is the way to go. Honda manual part numbers are: for V65 Magna, #61MB403, and for V65 Sabre, #61MB301.

Many like the Clymer manual, which is basically just a condensed version of the Honda manuals, with the addition of an occasional helpful hint for the novice. The current edition covers 1982-`88 700-1100 V4s, Magna and Sabre. It is adequate for most jobs, listing just about all the specs you'd ever need. It's about 400 pages thick, and costs about $25... Clymer part number M327.

Haynes apparently also offers a V4 repair manual, but is less popular.

The SabMags have pointed out that the Honda manual does not cover fork oil changes, yet the Clymer manual does.

Be aware of the following errors found in the manuals: as Tony Donisi points out, the manuals say to remove the idle/starter jets from the carb for cleaning. However, themanual does not tell you that the idle jets are pressed in (and are basically not removable). Tony knows of an instance where a mechanic read the manual, and proceeded to break all 4 idle jets, destroying the carbs.

Also, I have not yet seen a manual which describes the use of the cam holder tool for when adjusting the valves. It is very important to use the cam holder tool when adjusting the valves, so make a note of this.

Concerning camshaft removal: In some manuals, under "cam/head removal", it states to first remove the carbs, exhaust system, and loosen the rear engine mount bolt, before removing the cams. Apparently, theses steps are NOT necessary if just removing the cams. These steps would be necessary if removing the heads however.

One day, my friend and I engaged in a friendly street race on our old V45 Magnas. While my friend was accelerating at full throttle, the tranny popped out of 2nd gear into neutral. The engine revved straight past redline, then shut off. Surprisingly, the engine did not suffer any damage. The engine started up, and after a little bit of coughing, it ran perfect.

The next day, we explained the story to a Honda dealer who claimed that V45s/65s have a built in two-stage rev limiter. "At roughly 11,000 rpm, the first stage begins to limit the rpm from climbing any higher. But if the engine should shoot up to around 13,000 rpm, the second stage shuts off the engine."

However, I recently met a friendly fellow who told me how he damaged the engine of his brand new V45 Sabre by over-revving (he "missed a shift upwards of 9,000 rpm"). He said that "a lot of valves got bent, but the engine was repairable". $700 later, his dealer got the thing running again. This sounds to me like the result of either a thrown cam chain, or perhaps just severe valve float. Rev-limiter?

Perhaps the dealer I spoke with was wrong, and V65s/V45s do NOT have a built in rev limiter...? An article in Motorcyclist about hopping up an early `80's VF750 Interceptor recommends adding a K/V rev-limiter. Why would they recommend a rev-limiter if the bike already had one. ? Does anyone know whether or not the V65 has a built in rev-limiter?

I have not yet heard of any V45s/65s throwing a connecting rod, or experiencing any catastrophic lower end failures from over revving. Has anyone else?

What is considered over-revving on a V45/65? First, the red "danger" zone on the tach gauge begins at 10,000 rpm and the gauge ends at 11,000 rpm. The V45 and V65 owner's manual says "do not exceed 8,000 rpm when running the engine without a load... do not exceed 10,000 rpm at any time". I'll add that it's probably a lot more dangerous to run the engine near 8,000 rpm without a load, than to run it to 10,000 rpm with a load. I personally have pulled maybe two near 11,000 rpm shifts in my day... not intentionally. No troubles were encountered. It is recommended to keep the revs under 9,000 rpm, unless you're really going for that record breaking e.t.

When I obtained my very first real motorcycle years ago (a V45), I was afraid to rev past 6,000 rpm, stuck in an automotive V-8 state of mind. I had been so used to race shifting my 455 Pontiac at 5,200 rpm, that it was hard to imagine shifting any vehicle at 9,000 rpm. Fortunately, a mad hotrodder friend of mine coaxed me into unleashing the beast. If anyone out there has not yet experienced a V65 6,000-9,000 rpm acceleration, do so NOW. Don't be afraid. Go to a safe, flat, barren place. Prepare for serious G-forces. Be sure to always be watching the road WAY ahead, because you'll be there in a blink. Remember that it takes less than seven seconds reach three-digit speeds. As my friend refers to it, "scary-fast", or as scientists refer to it, "warp speed". Enjoy.

The most sought after V65 Sabre accessory is the original Hondaline hardbag set-up. I think I've only seen a hardbag equipped V65 Sabre once in my lifetime. I have seen several V45 Sabres with this option however. I wonder if it's difficult to modify the V45 set up to fit the V65?

Kurt Grife didn't let the scarceness of the Honda hardbags get him down, and instead fetched a pair of Kawasaki Concours side hardbags. Kurt fabricated his own mounting system to attach the Kawi trunks to the Sabre. Looks and works great! (See photo of Kurt's Sabre) For those who wish to obtain Sabre hardbags, you might want to consider a custom set-up as Kurt's, since originals could take years to locate.

Concerning the Sabre hardbags, it appears that other Hondas of the early `80's, such as CBXs and Silverwings, came with similar type hardbags. Maybe they're the same? For those who have never used hardbags and wish to obtain them, you may want to consider soft bags instead. Softbags can easily be compressed when you need to squeeze through a tight spot. Plus, with soft bags, there's less plastic to scratch and break in case of a mild mishap. A soft bag actually acts as a safety cushion in a stationary tip over, and will suffer little or no damage. Be sure to carry your camera in your tankbag though. Softbags are also lighter, and can ultimately hold more.

Many aftermarket and even OEM soft saddlebags are difficult to mount on the Magna and Sabre, due to the mufflers. I have mounted a humongous pair of Eclipse "Interstate" softbags on my Magna, but with the addition of custom made "saddlebag supports" to keep the bags from burning on the mufflers. (see diagram) These Eclipse bags are made nice, and hold everything (3900 c.i.)... a good value at $120. On a typical five day 1,200 mile camping trip with my wife, I'll load nearly 20 lbs. of gear into each one. I fit the main throw-over straps under the seat, but regardless, the bags do not HANG. Instead, they SIT on top of the custom supports, and thus achieve a lower center of gravity. The supports keep everything in place and stable... bike handles excellent. Such style custom supports can be added to Sabre models too.

The saddlebag supports are made of 7/8" aluminum electrical conduit pipe. Simply cut a proper length, bend in a vise (or in a tight angle pipe bender) to the correct angle, and drill two holes to match the passenger footpeg support bolt locations. Get a set of longer bolts to replace the original footpeg support plate bolts, since these bolts will now also secure the 7/8" pipe. You'll need some shims (extra washers and/or nuts) to get things lined up right, and that's it. In addition, I added a flat piece of sheet metal to the top of the pipe for added support. Looks like hell, but as long as the bags are in place, the sheet metal is hidden.

Ace mechanic Demetri Kokkoris fabricated his own custom set of saddlebag supports. (Refer to photo of Demetri's `84 Magna). He used a length of chrome plated pipe, and even cut the end to match the angle of the muffler tips. Since he did not add flat support plates on top, the bars look real sharp even when saddlebags are not in place.

On my Sabre, I chose a pair of Eclipse P-38 bags. These are rated at only 1850 c.i., but still prove to hold a lot. Since they do not hang low, muffler clearance is not a problem. However, I did relocate my rear turn signals in order to get the bags to sit back far enough to eliminate interference with a passenger's legs. I keep the front hang strap over the seat, and the rear hang strap over my small accessory rear rack.

Based on the enthusiast responses, Eclipse is the most popular saddlebag brand, various models. For Magnas, the $90 Willie/Max Deluxe leather bags are popular... they hang over the seat, clear the mufflers, and look sharp (refer to photo of Shawn H.'s Magna). Also for Magnas, Rev-Pack Deluxe bags are recommended, and are said to be totally waterproof. OSI nylon bags (about $150) appear to fit well on Sabres over the seat, clearing the turn signals and mufflers (refer to photo of Malcolm Davies's Sabre). Some owners use various types of Chase Harpers and Bagmans too.

There is no particular model saddlebag that can be recommended as a perfect fit. All bags are universal. All fit differently. Some like to mount the bag straps over the seat, some like to mount them under. If you're fussy, you'll need to experiment.

Most complain that the stock V65 seats are not comfortable enough for long hauls, and that the stock seat height is too high. For these reasons, many have opted for aftermarket seats.

Mustang: I use a Mustang Regal Pillow double touring seat on my V65 Magna... excellent comfort for both rider and passenger. It gives full support, but has a less sporty appearance than the stock seat. The ride height of this Mustang seat is lower than the stock seat by about two inches. In fact, since I'm tall and like to sit high, I modified and shimmed the seat to raise it back up to near stock height. Others have praised the Regal Pillow by Mustang. I have tried this seat on other bikes. It has a sporty look, is relatively comfortable, but is not great for long hauls... a bit too narrow. Several Magna owners feel the same. Mustang makes seats for V65/V45 Magnas, and V45 Sabres... NOT V65 Sabres. They are priced similarly to Corbin.

Corbin: Of the survey, 80% of the V65 Sabre owners with aftermarket seats use and love Corbins. This may be partly due to the fact that V65 Sabre seats are not available from Mustang. About 60% of the Magna owners use Corbins, and also give them a positive rating. Some have expressed that they feel the Mustangs are more comfortable however. One Magna owner reports that his Corbin double-bucket seat does not fit well to the bike. I will add that nearly every aftermarket seat I have ever dealt with required minor to moderate modification in order to get it to fit just right.

Travelcade: They offer seat kits to be installed onto your original seat pan, and also offer complete seats too. I had purchased a complete Travelcade replacement seat for my V45 Magna, and was happy, at least after a few minor mods. However, I once rode a V65 Magna with a Travelcade seat kit installed... nice, but the "bucket" seemed a bit too forward and too small... made the bike feel small. Travelcades seem to be a good value, costing much less than the others. Check the photo of John Knepp's V65 Sabre, which wears a Travelcade double-bucket touring seat kit, obtained from J.C. Whitney on sale for only $60. Looks good and comfortable, and John is very happy with it.

The Honda manual recommends changing the spark plugs every 4k miles. This short change interval is because each plug fires twice per cycle, twice as many times than with conventional ignition systems. However, it seems that you can get more than 4k miles out of the plugs without trouble. Since "motorcycle" plugs are often expensive, many try to stretch the limit. Gaylon G. suggests that plugs can work fine up to 20k miles.

I, and others, have noticed that if you leave the plugs in for a longer than recommended time, that once you do change them, it seems that performance suddenly becomes a bit more "sparky" (no pun intended). John Knepp notices an improvement in performance when changing the plugs at 4k miles, even though the old ones come out looking new. This suggests that performance may indeed suffer a bit when running "worn" plugs. With this in mind, perhaps it is a good idea to change them not too long after the recommended interval. The extra performance may be worth the few extra bucks.

It's a good idea to use a bit of high heat lubricant such as Permatex anti-seize on the plug threads. Also, I've noticed that sometimes, after a while, the plugs will loosen up. After installing new plugs, recheck the torque a few hundred miles later.

I usually use NGKs, and have tried NDs a few times... never had a problem. I always use the "colder" version NGK DRP9EA-9, as opposed to the DRP8EA-9, and the plugs always come out properly colored without excessive deposits.

David Hickey Jr. notes that his lower bank cylinder plugs (2 & 4) come out darker and wetter that the other two, which could be due to one of several reasons. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what's your theory/findings?

Make sure the plug boots are sealed to the ignition wires. I recommend applying a light coating of black silicon sealer where the boot meets the wire, especially on the two front cylinders. I had an experience where water found its way between the boot and wire, shorting the plug. It was upsetting to suddenly encounter a nasty miss while being tailgated by a trailer truck on an interstate in the rain. I've heard of another Magna owner who experienced the exact same problem. Incidentally, my quick fix that day was to first dry the plug and boot, then tie a piece of material around the wire in front of the boot. It worked fine until I was able to repair it properly.

Use dielectric grease inside the boots and around the plug connection. This will keep the boot from sticking, plus maintain a good connection, reducing arcing tendencies.

The following is borrowed directly from the MagSab FAQ pages by Trenton Shoeb.

"You can replace the wires in the plug leads. Copper wire is the best; the only reason for the use of resistive type wires is to reduce ignition noise pickup in the radio, and all the fancy electronics in the average new cage. Resistive type wires reduce the intensity of the spark, ie. restrict the current flow. Unscrew the compression sleeve that holds the plug wire in place in the coil. There is an O-ring on the wire; remove and save it. There is a slot in the fitting that pushes over the threaded end of the spark plug, loosen it with a screw driver and remove it from the plug end. You can push the wire out through the rubber plug cap. Unsolder the brass washer from the wire. Cut a new piece of copper core ignition wire to the same length as the old wire +1/4" . Strip back the insulation and solder the brass washer onto the wire. Feed the wire back through the plug end and reassemble. Put the compression fitting on the other end and replace the O-ring. Smear a bit of dielectric grease inside the plug fitting; this makes it much easier to remove later. Don't forget to check the old plugs for carbon tracks on the insulator. Nothing worse for a good spark than a conductive boot. You can replace the spark plug boots with NGK p/n SD05F and XD05F."

Unlike the mechanical cable on Magnas, Sabres use an electric speedometer pick-up sender (at the front axle). Ernest Kenny has had to replace three of these units, and recommends applying a good coat of silicon grease to the unit to prevent corrosion.

Gaylon G. finds his starter motor turning slow at 70k miles.

Ray T. relays that if the starter is running slow, and the battery and all connections are in good order, you should rebuild the starter. "Pull the starter, making sure the bike is on its sidestand, not centerstand, otherwise you'll spill nearly a quart of oil. Check the brushes and commutator. Clean the glaze off the commutator... do not use emery paper. Clean out any copper dust, etc., from between the segments. Reassembling the starter and trying to pull back the four brushes with one hand while holding back the armature with the other hand can be difficult if alone. It will help if you can pull the brush springs back and clip them over the sides or use a pin to keep them out of the way. (the manuals offer info too).

Some owners have suggested to make sure the cable connection at the starter is clean and lubricated to avoid poor starter performance and cable meltdown.

Jack Hart once had to replace a starter relay switch on a V65... the only V65 problem he ever encountered in over 200k miles of riding V65s.

Robert T. replaced the steering head bearings on his `85 V65 Sabre at about 100k miles when he started experiencing a strong "detent" feel with the fork in the straight ahead position. Rob replaced the original ball bearings with roller bearings from Cycles Unlimited (Eldon Rix) R.R. #2 Pryor, OK 74361. The roller bearings are "much better", and cost only $52 including shipping. Stock ball bearings are about $75. These roller bearings fit many other model bikes too.

Rob describes replacing the steering head bearings as a "big job". He mentioned that the handle of his floor jack happened to serve as the perfect sized punch for driving on the lower race.

As several enthusiasts have pointed out, you may wish to swap some of the original Honda tools of your OEM tool kit for some higher quality tools. Always expect to have to service the bike in the middle of nowhere... a few good tools could mean the difference between getting yourself going right away, or being stranded for hours.

As several enthusiasts have pointed out, do not try to remove the rear wheel axle nut with the OEM wrench provided in the bike kit. You will only wreck the nut.

Don't forget extra fuses, a spark plug, a tire puncture kit, and a taillight bulb.

Mid-late `80's editions of the Guinness Book of World Records list the V65 Magna as the world's fastest production road motorcycle with a "design speed" of 173 mph. Magazine test articles have calculated that a theoretical redline in top gear would yield between 173 and 184 mph. Many test articles have measured actual V65 Sabre and Magna top speeds at around 135-140 mph. Most enthusiasts wrote in claiming to have reached 120- 140 mph, 130 mph being most common... except for 75 year old Jack Hart who claims 160+ mph! Right on, Jack!

As most agree, the gearing of the V65 is well matched to the torque curve. An unburdened V65 will fly along effortlessly in top gear at 60 mph. However, I have found that loading a V65 Magna down with a passenger, luggage, (total weight on bike: 350 lbs.), and adding aerodynamic burdens such as a windshield and saddlebags, will make it difficult to maintain a steady 60 mph in top (6th) gear (about 3,500 rpm). The engine will be operating right on the edge of the lugging zone... not enough torque for the situation. Of course, there's always 5th gear, but it becomes annoying to have to constantly shift between 6th and 5th every time you experience a slight grade, wind, etc. A few hundred miles of this can cause extreme left hand fatigue, and ultimately causes extra clutch and tranny wear. Simply staying in 5th at 60-65 mph continuously puts the rpm level a bit too high for the load encountered at those speeds... the engine will run hot and inefficiently. A good way to describe it, the V65, when loaded down, could use another gear that is midway between 5th and 6th.

Anyone who uses their V65 as a "touring" bike, as described above, will benefit from an increase in the amount of torque available at 55-60 mph in top gear. One way to achieve this, is to advance the camshafts in order to shift the torque curve of the engine lower in the rpm range.

Another idea would be to use a "shorter" rear tire to lower the effective gear ratio, thus raising the operating rpm (and torque) at given speeds. Since the Magna uses a tall 140/90-16 tire, it may be possible to use a 130/90-16 without hurting the ride quality much. However, assuming that the 130 is about 3/4" shorter than the 140, my calculations suggest that the 130 would yield an increase of only 100 rpm or less at 60 mph in 6th... not enough. An increase of 250 rpm in 6th would do the trick. Any ideas? Finally, another way to prevent lugging in 6th gear, is to simply cruise faster, such as at 70+ mph. Apparently, at 70+ mph (4200+ rpm), the torque achieved overpowers the high speed load. However, a speed trap could prove to be a problem.

Ray T. had to replace 6th, 5th, and 2nd gear in his `84 Sabre, after experiencing a 6th gear that tended to disengage by itself. The four gears (6th, 5th, and both 2nds) cost $270 back in 1991. Ray noted that by properly shimming the gears, shifting was improved.

Jim Lehman owned an `83 and owns an `84 Magna, both of which lost 2nd gear, but Jim confesses he's a wheelie-king.

Len Puma bought a complete `83 V65 Magna for $100... stuck in 2nd gear however.

At 26k miles, Keith Mazelin had to replace the 1st gear shift fork, and 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears of his `83 Magna... about $400-450 with the dealer doing all the work, installing used parts from a salvaged motor. At 60k, Keith had to replace the two "large shift forks", and 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears again... about $700 with mechanic doing the internal work, new parts, but Keith pulled and installed engine from the frame himself. Apparently, the 1983-`85 V65s did not have the best designed 2nd gear, as several owners have had to replace. Honda changed (improved) the gear design after 1985. If you look at the specs in the official Honda Magna manual, you'll note that the 2nd and 3rd gear ratios are different for 1986 applications. Also, Ray T. reports that when he purchased 2nd gear for his `84 Sabre, he had to get "both gears, since Honda changed the shape of the gear teeth since the production of the bike, the teeth now being shorter and fatter".

Rusty Marcotte reports that the transmission of his V65 Sabre "locks up", becomes stuck in gear when hot. Shifts again once cool.

The MagSab page notes that a gearshift failure is likely due to a broken gear shift arm spring. More info on the net.

Most V65 Magnas/Sabres I've ridden have finicky transmissions. Sometimes they shift smooth as butter, other times they just refuse to go into gear.

The trannys will always behave better with lighter oil (10W-40 opposed to 20W-50). Also, higher quality motorcycle oil seems to provide smoother shifts than regular automotive oil. Many feel that synthetic oil makes a noticeable improvement above all. As Thomas Blooming points out, be sure the shift linkage is properly lubricated. It shouldn't bind, or be too sloppy.

Be sure the clutch hydraulic system is in good working order, and that the hydraulic line is air-free. For `85 and up Magna models, be sure the clutch lever adjustment is set properly.

Retired mechanic Jack Hart offers the following procedure to help obtain smooth shifts: "Squeeze the clutch lever all the way in and click it in to 1st gear. Run the bike up to the desired speed, and squeeze the clutch lever all the way in. Put a small amount of pressure on the shifter and run the engine up to the same speed as the transmission. At this point, the tranny will slip right into second gear. Use the same procedure for 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th."

Jim Hedrick offers the following tip for obtaining smooth shifts: "apply slight pressure on the shift lever BEFORE pulling in the clutch."

Whether upshifting or downshifting, I find that the following always applies... after pulling in the clutch, never try to force it into gear, but instead apply light pressure to the shift lever, and after a few seconds it will effortlessly slip into gear. This is basically what Jack Hart has described, and it indeed applies to all V4s I've ridden. But, remember to not press the shifter too lightly, because you may experience a mild "gear grind" sound. Also, sometimes this technique doesn't work well from 6th to 5th, as it seems more often than not, a "gear grind" sound will be experienced. From 6th to 5th, it may be better to press down with more authority. From 5th on down though, this "light pressure for a few seconds with the clutch in" method will be helpful.

If you're stopped at a light, the bike in neutral, you can get it into 1st by pulling in the clutch, and rolling the bike several inches while pressing lightly on the shift lever.

Do not try to downshift to 1st until you're nearly about to stop, even if you do NOT intend to re-engage the clutch before stopping. If you wish to drop into first while still travelling relatively fast, rev up the engine to match the rpm that would normally be encountered in 1st, just as if you were going to let out the clutch at that speed. Otherwise, a loud unpleasant clunk will be experienced. Of course, needless to say, if you were to drop to first at a high speed and engage the clutch, you'd be yanked into a rapid deceleration. The safety sprag clutch design of the V65 would then come into play to prevent a wild skid-out.

Also, if you happen to pop into a state of neutral while travelling relatively fast, be sure to get the rpms up before shifting back into gear, or, as above, a nasty clunk will be experienced upon pressing the shift lever.

Now and then, when accelerating hard and shifting fast, if I fail to click 6th gear in with conviction, it will go into 6th, then pop right out, and enter a limbonic state of neutral between 5th and 6th. Other V65 owners have reported the same experience.

Don Poremski is planning on building a V65 powered custom three-wheeled vehicle. The project is based on a trike kit that was available in the late `70's called "Tri-Magnum", and a similar kit called "Fire Aero". The vehicle will have two wheels in front, one in the rear. A V65 Magna frame/engine becomes the rear portion of the vehicle, and is attached to the front half through the bike's goose neck tube, strengthened by runners back to the lower portions of the frame. Chevette front axle. Tri-Magnum had the kit builder fashion his own body from fiberglass, much like the old balsa wood model airplanes using sheets of foam for tissue paper, then glassing both the inner and outer surfaces. Don will do the same, and is going for more of a classic car look for the front, with tandem seating, not side by side. Imagine an old Delahaye or Bugatti with its bulbous fenders, place those on either side of a rather aeronautical fuselage which extends rearward to cover the bike portion, and there you have it.

Don is still currently in search of a "junker" V65 Magna to use for the project. Though Don only needs the rear half with good running engine, he would prefer to obtain an entire bike... forks need not be straight. Don also welcomes snail-mail or E-mail from anyone who is interested in the project.

Several enthusiasts have reported failed "blinker" units. An enthusiasts once told me he was able to get a replacement Japanese auto blinker unit that fit, for half the price of the Honda cycle part. Any part numbers?

Recently, the turn signal system failed on my `85 Magna. One of the first test procedures is to short the blinker unit to ground to see whether or not the blinker unit itself is good. I shorted the unit, hit the switch, and the signals worked. The blinker was fine, and apparently, something in the self-canceling system was ill. After more troubleshooting, I still couldn't pinpoint the problem. The wiring diagram in my Clymer manual didn't exactly match the wires on the bike... close, but not close enough. I also came to realize that an electronic module from Honda was going to be expensive. To avoid further headaches, I simply "permanently" grounded the blinker unit with the "test" wire, bypassing the self-canceling system. The signals now work fine, but must be canceled manually.

In my opinion, the most undesirable aspect of the V65 is the recommended valve adjustment every 8k miles, as described in the Honda manual. If you ride a lot, you might find yourself performing this tedious task nearly twice a year.

If you should choose to have your valves done at a shop, there can be problems. One, it's a fairly expensive job. Two, you never know whether or not the work was actually performed, or whether or not the mechanic actually took the time to carefully measure and adjust each of the 16 clearances. As it is, clearances are often out by only.001" - .002", and if a mechanic does a rush job, his work might be inaccurate by .001" anyway. I've heard of two accounts where V4 owners brought their bikes in for adjustment, and they were nearly sure their mechanic didn't even open the engine. Recommendation: if you are going to have the work done by someone, ONLY go to a highly experienced mechanic, preferably at a Honda dealer, and try to stop around when they are supposed to perform the work... be sure they don't just dust off the valve covers, and hand you a large bill.

Some feel that it is not necessary to adjust the valves every 8k miles. Ken St.Amant has nearly 28k on his last adjustment, and his bike is running excellent. David Hickey Jr.'s Sabre is also running fine with 42k on the odo... the valves have never been adjusted. Then there are some who proclaim you must adjust the valves every 5k miles or less to avoid catastrophe.

I rip my valve covers off every 10k miles. After originally doing it faithfully at 8k, I found that the clearances never changed that much. Waiting that extra 2k can sometime get me to the end of the season. Anyhow, I've never experienced clearances out by more than .002"... usually just off by .001".

Many believe that clearances can only grow due to wear at the valve tips and rocker adjusters. This does take place, but the clearances can also shrink due to valve recession. So, there's a reason for both growth and shrinkage of the clearances. Which occurs faster? After performing many adjustments, I cannot come to any conclusion. At each adjustment, I find some clearances that have grown, some that have shrunk.

If the clearances should be a bit on the loose side, this is O.K. However, if the clearances are on the tight side, there's a risk of the valves running hot due to a reduced "seated" time, which can lead to a burnt valve.

If you haven't performed a valve adjustment in a long time, and would like to do a quick check without opening the engine, just perform a simple compression test. If your findings are noticeably below spec, clearances may be too tight. If the readings are noticeably high, the clearances may be too loose.

Valve "ticking" noise is normal, even when the valves are properly adjusted. Such noise will be more pronounced when cold. Most mechanics will suggest that you only be concerned if you do not hear valve noise. However, if you should detect an abnormally loud ticking sound, grab a compression tester and do some investigating.

As Ray T. has related, a mechanic once witnessed that it took over two minutes for cold oil to reach the cylinder head area of a V65 after an initial cold start-up. Anything to help get the oil to circulate quicker will be beneficial.

I have made a motorcycle engine heater from an old electric space heater by modifying the housing to allow it to lay flat. In 50 degree or lower temperatures, I simply slip the heater underneath the engine and turn it on about 30 minutes before starting the engine. It really helps. The engine cranks fast, starts right up, and warms quickly. Since the heater is placed close to the oil filter and oil pan, the oil gets warmed well, and thus will circulate much better.

The only danger in using such an "under-engine heater", would be if any oil were to leak from the engine onto the heater, a serious fire could result. Needless to say, always check very carefully before using such a heater.

Though the Honda owner's manual says to begin riding after the temp gauge "exceeds the blue (cold) mark" which can take a pretty long time in cold weather, I like to do the following instead: after starting the engine (choke on), let it idle for a minute max. Then, even though the temp gauge will still read cold, put the bike in gear, and start riding. However, keep the bike in first gear only, be gentle on the throttle, and keep engine speed around 2000 rpm or so. Once rolling, disengage the choke completely. Continue to ride around slowly until the temp gauge indicates correct operating temperature. Do not allow the engine to experience any load during this warm-up time.

Some owners like to let the bike sit and idle only until it has reached full operating t